Inspired by a visit to see Tony Conigliaro at the unnamed bar at 69 Colebrooke Row in London last fall, where Manhattans are aged in glass vessels to sublime and subtle effect, the barrel aged cocktails I’ve been serving at Clyde Common this year are a decidedly American curiosity.
The rub of aging cocktails in a glass bottle is that the whole premise is built upon subtlety, as we know that spirits aged in glass or steel do so at an unremarkable pace. Being from the United States, where – as everyone is aware – bigger equals better, I pondered the following question: what if you could prepare a large batch of a single, spirit-driven cocktail and age it in a used oak barrel?
A hundred some-odd dollars in liquor later, I was nervously pouring a gallon of pre-batched rye Manhattans into a small, used oak cask whose previous contents were a gallon Madeira wine. I plugged the barrel and sat back in anxious anticipation; if the experiment was a success I’d have a delicious cocktail to share at the bar – if it was a failure then I’d be pouring the restaurant’s money down the floor drain.
Over the next several weeks I popped open the barrel to test my little concoction until I stumbled upon the magic mark at five-to-six weeks. And there it was, lying beautifully on the the finish: a soft blend of oak, wine, caramel and char. That first batch sold out in a matter of days and I was left with a compelling need to push the process even further.
Now, three gallons of Negroni might not be practical for the home enthusiast, but the average bar or restaurant should be able to afford that sort of quantity quite easily. For those of you trying this at home, try searching the internet for one-gallon charred oak casks (stay away from the fancy lacquered kind meant for display in dens and 1980s wine bars) and be sure to let us know what you find in the comments section below.
We procured a small number of used whiskey casks from the Tuthilltown distillery and proceeded to fill them with a large batch of Negronis; and that’s when the magic of barrel aged cocktails grabbed our attention. After six weeks in the bourbon barrel, our Negroni emerged a rare beauty. The sweet vermouth so slightly oxidized, the color paler and rosier than the original, the mid-palate softly mingled with whiskey, the finish long and lingering with oak tannins. We knew we were on to something unique and immediately made plans to take the cask aging program to the next level.
Negronis are now prepared in five-gallon batches and poured into multiple bourbon barrels. Robert Hess’ ubiquitous Trident cocktail is currently resting inside single-malt barrels. The El Presidente (à laMatt Robold), Deshlers, Remember the Maines, they’re all receiving the oaked treatment in a little storage room in the basement of the restaurant that I refer to as my “office”.
Once the cocktail is aged long enough for my taste, I then drain the bottle, straining out any charred bits of wood, and bottle the contents for use by my bartenders. To order, the cocktail is then measured out and poured over ice in a mixing glass, stirred, strained into a cocktail glass, and then garnished with the appropriate garnish. It’s quick and simple, as all of the real work has already been done by the barrel.
Anyway, on to the recipes. As simple as it seems to do, I figured not everyone is going to want to do the math to get started on some of these recipes, so here are a few I’ve figured out:
Negroni
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) dry gin
128 oz sweet vermouth
128 oz Campari
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel. Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Manhattan
Makes Three Gallons
256 oz (approximately ten 750ml bottles) rye whiskey
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) sweet vermouth
7 oz Angostura bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a barrel that has previously stored sherry, Madeira, or port wine). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Trident
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) aquavit
128 oz dry sherry
128 oz Cynar
7 oz peach bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a used single malt barrel). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments section below.
My problem with homemade tonic water has always been a flavor profile that was too esoteric for the general audience. This recipe takes some of the positive qualities people have come to understand from commercial tonic water and updated them with fresh ingredients.
One question I'm often asked is "Do you have any drink-related book recommendations?" Well, funny you should ask, I've compiled a list of the ten books every professional bartender or home mixologist should own. I keep every one of these close at hand and have read most of them several times. I suggest you do the same.
The problem with living in Oregon is the absence of little wooden shacks by the sea that sell cases of fresh ginger beer stacked on back porches. But with some readily-available ingredients, a recipe I've been revising for several years - and a few free minutes - I can easily transport myself to a little fishing boat on the ocean as I sip a Dark and Stormy made with fresh, house-made ginger beer.
It's always mojito season somewhere, so this advice is timely in your area about half the year. Wether you're making them or simply enjoying them, this advice will help you look like a pro in no time at all.
The flavors of the Richmond Gimlet are imbued with sunshine. Fresh mint mingling with the herbaceousness of gin and the tartness of lime have made this drink a Eugene classic for many years now.
You'll get a lot of snarky advice on this site about how to make a proper drink, but if you ever need to know what not to do, this is the video for you.
Not to be confused with the Spanish wine-and-fruit-based alcoholic beverage sangria, sangrita (meaning "little blood") is a traditional accompaniment to a tequila served completo; a non-alcoholic sipper that cleanses the palate between fiery doses of agave.
The world of booze can be mystifying to people that don't work in bars or around alcohol all the time. I hear a lot of assumptions about the industry I'm in that are - much like 90% of what you hear in bars - completely false. Here are a few you've probably heard yourself.
The debate rages on: Should we try to look cool and crack open the Boston shaker or be tidy professionals and use the Hawthorne strainer the way God intended? Be sure to leave your two cents in the comments section.
The traditional garnish for a Pisco Sour is a couple of drops of bitters in the foam, but I've never been particularly impressed with the way these few paltry drops of bitters sat in their little egg-white mattress and didn't play along with the rest of the drink. I envisioned a Pisco Sour with a uniformly-distributed bitters-scorched foam: slightly crisp as the fire burnt the sugars, and slightly warm as the foam insulated the rest of the frosty cocktail from the heat. A pisco creme brulée in a glass!
I get so many visitors looking for tips on how to write a bartending resume that I thought I should finally post a tutorial on how to write your own. Click the headline to read more.
I always love showing up to a party with a gallon jug of pre-mixed margaritas, so I've decided to share my recipe. This margarita recipe is the perfect blend of strong, sweet, and sour. But be warned: this recipe packs a serious punch.
There isn't much I can say about this video that hasn't been said already. If you've read anything I've written about cocktails, you'll understand why this video symbolizes everything wrong with the state of bartending in America today. Watch and learn, but be warned: this one isn't for the feint of heart.
About Me
My name is Jeff Morgenthaler and I'm the head bartender at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon.
I've been tending bar since 1996 and writing about it since 2004. Mixing drinks has become something of a passion for me in recent years, and I strive to elevate the experience of having a drink from something mundane to something more culinary.
The writing I do here is intended as a work in progress. My recipes are like my opinions: they are constantly being revised and refined as I work them through my mind and my fingers. Comments and participation are encouraged, so please don't feel the need to tread lightly here.
Jeffrey Morgenthaler, head bartender at El Vaquero restaurant, is the author of a well-read blog on mixology.
The Register-Guard here in Eugene ran a piece about local area bloggers today, featuring a humungous photo of yours truly. Lewis Taylor did a nice job editing out all of my ums and uhs from the conversation we had on the phone last week, therefore saving me further embarassment (thanks, everyone, for the heckling phone calls, text messages and emails today).
They also talked to my friend Ken over at Mr. Random’s Blog of Randomness, I’m honored to have shared the limelight with the host of the best radio show in town – and a terrific author.
You can read the article here, but it looks like you might need to register in order to see the article. Ugh, sorry.
Wow, quoted by both my hometown paper and my hometown paper in the same month. I’d like to thank both my readers, so thanks!
Comments
8 Responses to “I’m Interviewed by My Other Hometown Newspaper”
01 May 2007 at 1:22 am 1. Scooter
Mmmmm…You blog real purty.
01 May 2007 at 6:56 am 2. Mata
Hey nice article and nice photo! Been years since I’ve seen a photo of you! You’re still a God!
Hey Jeff, congrats once again! In regards to your comment about having to register with the RG to read the article online, I think that only applies the day of the article so as to encourage people to by the damn paper. I just read the online version today with no hassles…later,
You ARE the man! Congrats on a great article. I’m sure that your blog will be getting bigger and bigger! I’ve also finally updated http://www.ultimatebarchef.com for the month of May. We have finally added a link to you! Hopefully together we can conquer the world and spread the word of what TRUE bartending is all about. It’s so nice to converse with people who are so passionate about tending bar. Gee, I suddenly have an incredible urge for a Negroni!
There’s Sean! Hey, thanks for the link and the little blurb, you rock! (Uh, just checked the link, and it’s broken. But you still rock.)
I’ve been craving one of the Petrossian Negronis lately. The Cinzano sweet vermouth, which I can’t find in town, really makes that drink. As does the burnt orange on top. Yum.
I just checked the link and all is well…maybe perhaps operator error??? Just kidding! Thanks for all the great comments about Sean and the site…
And to all of you who read this great blog…Jeffrey Morgenthaler is our Aspiring Bar Chef for June 2007. Hope you all check it out next month! Maybe it will get a blog just like the hometown newspaper!
I absolutely hate it when someone sends me a box full of sex toys in the mail. Sure, it might sound like fun to some of you (you know who you are), but receiving a big box of free sex is much more trouble than it’s worth. Believe me. So I get a [...]
01 May 2007 at 1:22 am 1. Scooter
Mmmmm…You blog real purty.
01 May 2007 at 6:56 am 2. Mata
Hey nice article and nice photo! Been years since I’ve seen a photo of you! You’re still a God!
01 May 2007 at 7:40 am 3. Jimmy
You’re quite welcome.
01 May 2007 at 8:01 am 4. Jeffrey
Jimmy, you were on that list, and you obviously know it, so thanks! I know Sean Bigley must be around here somewhere…
01 May 2007 at 12:57 pm 5. dclark
Hey Jeff, congrats once again! In regards to your comment about having to register with the RG to read the article online, I think that only applies the day of the article so as to encourage people to by the damn paper. I just read the online version today with no hassles…later,
-dave
01 May 2007 at 12:58 pm 6. Sean Bigley
Here I am!
You ARE the man! Congrats on a great article. I’m sure that your blog will be getting bigger and bigger! I’ve also finally updated http://www.ultimatebarchef.com for the month of May. We have finally added a link to you! Hopefully together we can conquer the world and spread the word of what TRUE bartending is all about. It’s so nice to converse with people who are so passionate about tending bar. Gee, I suddenly have an incredible urge for a Negroni!
Cheers!
02 May 2007 at 12:39 pm 7. Jeffrey
There’s Sean! Hey, thanks for the link and the little blurb, you rock! (Uh, just checked the link, and it’s broken. But you still rock.)
I’ve been craving one of the Petrossian Negronis lately. The Cinzano sweet vermouth, which I can’t find in town, really makes that drink. As does the burnt orange on top. Yum.
03 May 2007 at 7:33 am 8. Lisa Bigley
Jeffrey -
I just checked the link and all is well…maybe perhaps operator error??? Just kidding! Thanks for all the great comments about Sean and the site…
And to all of you who read this great blog…Jeffrey Morgenthaler is our Aspiring Bar Chef for June 2007. Hope you all check it out next month! Maybe it will get a blog just like the hometown newspaper!
Cheers!
Lisa Bigley