Inspired by a visit to see Tony Conigliaro at the unnamed bar at 69 Colebrooke Row in London last fall, where Manhattans are aged in glass vessels to sublime and subtle effect, the barrel aged cocktails I’ve been serving at Clyde Common this year are a decidedly American curiosity.
The rub of aging cocktails in a glass bottle is that the whole premise is built upon subtlety, as we know that spirits aged in glass or steel do so at an unremarkable pace. Being from the United States, where – as everyone is aware – bigger equals better, I pondered the following question: what if you could prepare a large batch of a single, spirit-driven cocktail and age it in a used oak barrel?
A hundred some-odd dollars in liquor later, I was nervously pouring a gallon of pre-batched rye Manhattans into a small, used oak cask whose previous contents were a gallon Madeira wine. I plugged the barrel and sat back in anxious anticipation; if the experiment was a success I’d have a delicious cocktail to share at the bar – if it was a failure then I’d be pouring the restaurant’s money down the floor drain.
Over the next several weeks I popped open the barrel to test my little concoction until I stumbled upon the magic mark at five-to-six weeks. And there it was, lying beautifully on the the finish: a soft blend of oak, wine, caramel and char. That first batch sold out in a matter of days and I was left with a compelling need to push the process even further.
Now, three gallons of Negroni might not be practical for the home enthusiast, but the average bar or restaurant should be able to afford that sort of quantity quite easily. For those of you trying this at home, try searching the internet for one-gallon charred oak casks (stay away from the fancy lacquered kind meant for display in dens and 1980s wine bars) and be sure to let us know what you find in the comments section below.
We procured a small number of used whiskey casks from the Tuthilltown distillery and proceeded to fill them with a large batch of Negronis; and that’s when the magic of barrel aged cocktails grabbed our attention. After six weeks in the bourbon barrel, our Negroni emerged a rare beauty. The sweet vermouth so slightly oxidized, the color paler and rosier than the original, the mid-palate softly mingled with whiskey, the finish long and lingering with oak tannins. We knew we were on to something unique and immediately made plans to take the cask aging program to the next level.
Negronis are now prepared in five-gallon batches and poured into multiple bourbon barrels. Robert Hess’ ubiquitous Trident cocktail is currently resting inside single-malt barrels. The El Presidente (à laMatt Robold), Deshlers, Remember the Maines, they’re all receiving the oaked treatment in a little storage room in the basement of the restaurant that I refer to as my “office”.
Once the cocktail is aged long enough for my taste, I then drain the bottle, straining out any charred bits of wood, and bottle the contents for use by my bartenders. To order, the cocktail is then measured out and poured over ice in a mixing glass, stirred, strained into a cocktail glass, and then garnished with the appropriate garnish. It’s quick and simple, as all of the real work has already been done by the barrel.
Anyway, on to the recipes. As simple as it seems to do, I figured not everyone is going to want to do the math to get started on some of these recipes, so here are a few I’ve figured out:
Negroni
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) dry gin
128 oz sweet vermouth
128 oz Campari
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel. Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Manhattan
Makes Three Gallons
256 oz (approximately ten 750ml bottles) rye whiskey
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) sweet vermouth
7 oz Angostura bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a barrel that has previously stored sherry, Madeira, or port wine). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Trident
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) aquavit
128 oz dry sherry
128 oz Cynar
7 oz peach bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a used single malt barrel). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments section below.
My problem with homemade tonic water has always been a flavor profile that was too esoteric for the general audience. This recipe takes some of the positive qualities people have come to understand from commercial tonic water and updated them with fresh ingredients.
One question I'm often asked is "Do you have any drink-related book recommendations?" Well, funny you should ask, I've compiled a list of the ten books every professional bartender or home mixologist should own. I keep every one of these close at hand and have read most of them several times. I suggest you do the same.
The problem with living in Oregon is the absence of little wooden shacks by the sea that sell cases of fresh ginger beer stacked on back porches. But with some readily-available ingredients, a recipe I've been revising for several years - and a few free minutes - I can easily transport myself to a little fishing boat on the ocean as I sip a Dark and Stormy made with fresh, house-made ginger beer.
It's always mojito season somewhere, so this advice is timely in your area about half the year. Wether you're making them or simply enjoying them, this advice will help you look like a pro in no time at all.
The flavors of the Richmond Gimlet are imbued with sunshine. Fresh mint mingling with the herbaceousness of gin and the tartness of lime have made this drink a Eugene classic for many years now.
You'll get a lot of snarky advice on this site about how to make a proper drink, but if you ever need to know what not to do, this is the video for you.
Not to be confused with the Spanish wine-and-fruit-based alcoholic beverage sangria, sangrita (meaning "little blood") is a traditional accompaniment to a tequila served completo; a non-alcoholic sipper that cleanses the palate between fiery doses of agave.
The world of booze can be mystifying to people that don't work in bars or around alcohol all the time. I hear a lot of assumptions about the industry I'm in that are - much like 90% of what you hear in bars - completely false. Here are a few you've probably heard yourself.
The debate rages on: Should we try to look cool and crack open the Boston shaker or be tidy professionals and use the Hawthorne strainer the way God intended? Be sure to leave your two cents in the comments section.
The traditional garnish for a Pisco Sour is a couple of drops of bitters in the foam, but I've never been particularly impressed with the way these few paltry drops of bitters sat in their little egg-white mattress and didn't play along with the rest of the drink. I envisioned a Pisco Sour with a uniformly-distributed bitters-scorched foam: slightly crisp as the fire burnt the sugars, and slightly warm as the foam insulated the rest of the frosty cocktail from the heat. A pisco creme brulée in a glass!
I get so many visitors looking for tips on how to write a bartending resume that I thought I should finally post a tutorial on how to write your own. Click the headline to read more.
I always love showing up to a party with a gallon jug of pre-mixed margaritas, so I've decided to share my recipe. This margarita recipe is the perfect blend of strong, sweet, and sour. But be warned: this recipe packs a serious punch.
There isn't much I can say about this video that hasn't been said already. If you've read anything I've written about cocktails, you'll understand why this video symbolizes everything wrong with the state of bartending in America today. Watch and learn, but be warned: this one isn't for the feint of heart.
About Me
My name is Jeff Morgenthaler and I'm the head bartender at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon.
I've been tending bar since 1996 and writing about it since 2004. Mixing drinks has become something of a passion for me in recent years, and I strive to elevate the experience of having a drink from something mundane to something more culinary.
The writing I do here is intended as a work in progress. My recipes are like my opinions: they are constantly being revised and refined as I work them through my mind and my fingers. Comments and participation are encouraged, so please don't feel the need to tread lightly here.
When I travel, I have a list of bars and bartenders that I want to see in whichever city I’ll be visiting. My recent trip to Manhattan was no exception, and after the Repeal Day party I made a point of heading out into the snowy night in eager anticipation of having some world-class cocktails.
The first bar on my list was the Flatiron Lounge, near Gramercy Park. All of the reviews I’d read told me that this was the place to be treated to some serious bartending, and judging by the cocktail menu that was placed before me, I was going to be in for a treat.
My first drink from the menu was a Chinchona, created by Charlotte Voisey, Hendrick’s Gin Brand Champion. The drink, to the best of my recollection, contained añejo tequila, Lillet rouge and orange bitters. I watched as my bartender, Giuseppe Gonzalez, crafted my cocktail with the technical prowess and attention to detail of a true master.
Sitting at the bar at the Flatiron, admiring their extensive liquor collection, I noticed a bottle I’d never seen before. Upon inquiring further, Giuseppe brought the bottle down from the shelf and let me try a sip. Amaro Abano, by Luxardo. Rich and viscous, with a lot of cardamom, saffron and bitter orange. The saffron interested me, so I asked to try a Negroni with the amaro. Giuseppe grabbed two ounces of Old Raj gin, and one ounce each of the Abano and Campari. The Abano lent a heavier texture than Italian vermouth, something like a reduction of Punt e Mes. But considering the 2:1:1 ratio, the drink worked well, especially in Giuseppe’s skilled hands.
By this point my friends from Eugene had showed up and it was time to track down some more cocktails before heading back to the hotel to pack for my flight.
Our next stop was to be Please Don’t Tell, a new cocktail-centric bar in St. Mark’s Place that has been hugely successful since its opening this year. Unfortunately I never got to set foot inside, as the place was packed beyond capacity. Heavy sigh…
The good news was that famed bar Death and Company was right around the corner. The bad news was delivered to us by the staff as we walked in on them dismantling the bar for the night. I considered suggesting we implement the recently-announced bartender exchange program right then and there (I’d take over breaking down the bar and they could fly back to Eugene and work my shift – sounds fair, right?) but I kept my mouth shut and assured them that we’d be back.
I’ve admired Sascha Petraske’s bartending philosophy for quite some time now, and I wanted to try at least one of his world-famous bars before I left. So the last stop of the night was decided to be Little Branch, a semi-reclusive neighborhood joint in the basement of a corner building in the West Village.
We were shown to our table by the cocktail server, directly across the aisle from the bossa nova quartet that was filling the cavern with familiar, soothing melodies.
My friends and I browsed the simple and well-constructed cocktail menu and settled in on a Hot Toddy, a Bramble, and (my selection) a Bartender’s Choice with the caveat that I was in the mood for some nice rye. I was delivered a light, beautifully-balanced blend of Rittenhouse rye, Laird’s applejack and Regan’s orange bitters, bathing a single cube of freshly-cut ice.
While I missed out on half my list of bars to see during my 36 hours in Manhattan, I was humbled by the professional service, brilliant craftsmanship and profound knowledge I witnessed in the two bars I was able to visit.
I’ll be back, New York.
Comments
9 Responses to “Manhattan Bar Tour: Two Outta Four Ain’t Bad, Right?”
11 Dec 2007 at 6:51 am 1. Giuseppe
It was apleasure to have you come in Jeff. When you are in town, please let me know so me and the other NYC cocktail geeks can show you around.
Thanks again, Giuseppe. And believe me, the next time I’m in town I’ll be shouting it from the rooftops. I had a wonderful first time in NYC.
11 Dec 2007 at 8:57 am 3. Joaquin
Sorry we couldn’t accommodate you at D&Co that night. We’ve started closing a bit earlier than we used to (which sadly affects our favorite industry regulars), but we are opening at 6pm to soften the blow. Drop me a line before your next visit and we’ll save you a spot at the bar…
I’ll have to check a couple of those places out next time I’m looking for a place to drink. Especially as there is all sorts of awesome food around St. Marks too. I’ve somehow started routinely getting falafel after drinking(and coffee..no wonder my stomach is always ready to kill me..). There are a lot of belgium bars around there too, for a more beer oriented drinking experience.
Flatiron is a great place.
I try to hit it when I’m in NYC.
The bartenders know their stuff – as do the wait-staff (which you don’t always get).
I like the downstairs lounge as it is a great chill space.
You didn’t get to Pegu Club?
I need to check out that “Please Don’t Tell” place next time I’m up there.
12 Dec 2007 at 2:43 pm 8. TK
Giuseppe Makes amazing drinks, but its his encyclopedic knowledge that takes it to the next level.
Flatiron has a great staff props to Julie and the gang for keeping it top notch
In the short amount of time I was able to spend at his bar, I was able to pick up on that about Giuseppe. I wish I’d had more time to pick his brain, but all the more reason for me to return again!
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11 Dec 2007 at 6:51 am 1. Giuseppe
It was apleasure to have you come in Jeff. When you are in town, please let me know so me and the other NYC cocktail geeks can show you around.
11 Dec 2007 at 8:07 am 2. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Thanks again, Giuseppe. And believe me, the next time I’m in town I’ll be shouting it from the rooftops. I had a wonderful first time in NYC.
11 Dec 2007 at 8:57 am 3. Joaquin
Sorry we couldn’t accommodate you at D&Co that night. We’ve started closing a bit earlier than we used to (which sadly affects our favorite industry regulars), but we are opening at 6pm to soften the blow. Drop me a line before your next visit and we’ll save you a spot at the bar…
11 Dec 2007 at 9:01 am 4. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Joaquin, you guys are at the top of my list for next time, I’ll be lined up promptly at 5:59.
11 Dec 2007 at 10:32 am 5. Lance Mayhew
I just brought back a bottle of Luxardo Amaro as well as Amaro Cio Ciaro from CA. We’ll have to crack them open next time you are in town.
11 Dec 2007 at 7:52 pm 6. 6th Floor Blogger
I’ll have to check a couple of those places out next time I’m looking for a place to drink. Especially as there is all sorts of awesome food around St. Marks too. I’ve somehow started routinely getting falafel after drinking(and coffee..no wonder my stomach is always ready to kill me..). There are a lot of belgium bars around there too, for a more beer oriented drinking experience.
12 Dec 2007 at 10:29 am 7. Kevin Erskine
Flatiron is a great place.
I try to hit it when I’m in NYC.
The bartenders know their stuff – as do the wait-staff (which you don’t always get).
I like the downstairs lounge as it is a great chill space.
You didn’t get to Pegu Club?
I need to check out that “Please Don’t Tell” place next time I’m up there.
12 Dec 2007 at 2:43 pm 8. TK
Giuseppe Makes amazing drinks, but its his encyclopedic knowledge that takes it to the next level.
Flatiron has a great staff props to Julie and the gang for keeping it top notch
13 Dec 2007 at 12:02 pm 9. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
In the short amount of time I was able to spend at his bar, I was able to pick up on that about Giuseppe. I wish I’d had more time to pick his brain, but all the more reason for me to return again!