Jeffrey Morgenthaler

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Brandy Old Fashioned

Wisconsin-stye Brandy Old Fashioned

In my opinion, one of the greatest triumphs of the cocktail renaissance is the rediscovery of the classic Old Fashioned. I’ve often spoken of how at some point after the repeal of Prohibition, the Old Fashioned became lost and possibly confused with a long-forgotten drink called a Smash (basically a tarted-up Mint Julep covered in fruit), a mere husk of its former, glorious self.

For decades, bartenders just like me served a limp, weak concoction consisting of a half-muddled sugar cube, a mashed-up neon red cherry and orange, a splash of whiskey, and some soda water drowning the results.

With a little luck, and a lot of hard work, that’s all changed with the renewed interest in classic cocktails. Now at any given night at my bar you can find literally a dozen people sipping on two ounces bourbon touched with a teaspoon of sugar and two dashes of bitters, garnished with a simple orange twist over a couple big ice cubes.

But don’t try to pull that bullshit with the good people of the Great State of Wisconsin, where the Brandy Old Fashioned rules supreme. It’s not the same drink as above, it just shares a name. And if you make it right, really right, it’s a damn delicious cocktail and worthy of examination.

Being located in a hotel, we’re used to serving folks from all over the world. And the first time I witnessed a guest from Wisconsin stare blankly as one of my bartenders handed over two ounces of Cognac touched with a teaspoon of sugar and two dashes of bitters and garnished with a simple orange twist over a couple big ice cubes, I knew some further training was in order.

So in the name of making cocktails – all cocktails – with as much of our hearts as we can offer, I present to you what I believe to be the perfect Brandy Old Fashioned… Wisconsin-style.

I start with an old fashioned glass I’ve chilled in the freezer. Call it a tumbler, call it a double rocks glass, or call it a bucket, it’s a glass you’re familiar with. To that I add two dashes of Angostura bitters and a teaspoon of sugar. If I’m in a hurry I use a 2:1 simple syrup, but if I’m going to spend some time, I use a sugar cube. The sugar cube is preferable here because it’s going to add some friction to the muddling we’re about to do. Brace yourselves, cocktail “nerds”.

Next I’ll take a thick-cut orange wedge, and a cherry. The usual suspect here is a grocery store maraschino cherry, but I always choose a brandied Amarena cherry. Remember, you’re going to get out what you put in, so a quality cherry is going to make the drink that much better.

I muddle the sugar, bitters, orange wedge and cherry into a thick paste, careful not to touch the orange peel too much as it’ll bring unwanted bitterness to the party – just work around the peel and pulverize that orange meat.

After muddling, the ingredients should form a sort of thick, fruit paste

Your standard Brandy Old Fashioned brandy of choice is Korbel: cheap California brandy. Considering the hundreds of thousands of cases they ship to Wisconsin every year, it might be considered sacrosanct to use anything else. But if you want to do this right, really right, then do yourself a favor and use some good Cognac. I have my preferred brandy, you have yours.

At this point your typical Wisconsinite barkeep is going to add ice and finish the drink in one of two main ways: sweet or sour. Those who take it sweet will ask for a splash of Sprite or 7-Up, those who take it sour get a dose of Collins Mix or Squirt. To me, it’s just a way of watering down the drink, so I leave out the soda and take a more… cocktail-y method.

Crushed ice is a must for me whenever I whip up a Brandy Old Fashioned. I always skip the soda and let the tiny shards of ice do the work, taming those strong, sweet flavors and turning this into a drink you can sip slowly.

Brandy Old Fashioned

As for a garnish, most will throw a “flag” of an orange wedge and a cherry spiked through with a wooden toothpick, but my take here is that those things are already in the drink, so I skip ‘em. Besides, how pretty does that look without the goofy fruit salad perched over the top?

You know, it’s something to enjoy sipping on while you cook up some bratwurst and onions in a boiling kettle of beer before everyone comes over to watch the Packers game. Drink accordingly.

Brandy Old Fashioned

1 sugar cube or 1 tsp 2:1 simple syrup
2 dashes Angostura bitters
1 orange wedge
1 cherry, preferably Amarena or Maraska
2 oz brandy or Cognac

In a chilled old fashioned glass, muddle the sugar, bitters, orange wedge and cherry into a thick paste, careful not to work the orange peel. Add brandy or Cognac, stir, and fill glass with crushed ice and serve.

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About Me

My name is Jeff Morgenthaler and I'm the bar manager at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon.

A photo of me behind the bar.

I've been tending bar since 1996 and writing about it since 2004. I started tending bar while getting my degree in Interior Architecture, and slowly I came to the conclusion that bartending was what I really loved, and that I might as well drop everything and focus on being a professional bartender. Over the years I have strived, both behind the bar and with this website, to elevate the experience of having a drink from something mundane to something more culinary.

The writing I do here is intended as a work in progress. My recipes are like my opinions: they are constantly being revised and refined as I work them through my mind and my fingers. Comments and participation are encouraged, so please don't feel the need to tread lightly here.

Ten Books Every Bartender Should Own

Monday, October 1st, 2007
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Recently, over at the Epicurious blog they had a post detailing their ten must-read books for cooks and gastronomes. I figured, “What a great idea, I should steal this for my own website!”

So here are my recommendations for the top ten books any bartender or home mixologist should keep within arm’s reach at all times.

1. Cosmopolitan: A Bartender’s Life by Toby Cecchini

Cecchini nails the quotidian life of a bartender down with the sort of accuracy that only a true lifer could. A must-read for anyone currently or formerly in the business, or just those with mild flirtations or aspirations.

You can buy this brilliant take on the business here. Better yet, pick up an extra copy and leave it as a tip for your favorite barkeep – if they haven’t read it already.

2. The Joy of Mixology by Gary Regan

If Gary’s chapter on drink families were the only chapter in this book, it would still be worth the cover price. This is probably my all-time favorite guide to mixology and bartending, all wrapped up in one place.

You can buy the Joy of Mixology here. Put it someplace handy, use the hell out of it, and then pick up another copy when you can no longer read the first.

3. Kindred Spirits 2 by F. Paul Pacult

I have a pretty good palate and an okay memory, so I feel comfortable with my own assessment of the spirits I carry behind my bar. Paul Pacult has a mind-numbingly brilliant palate and is a terrific, no-nonsense writer. So rather than rely solely on my own take on the brands I choose to stock, I also keep a copy of Kindred Spirits 2 behind the bar at all times. It’s an essential reference to the vast sea of flavors we’re confronted with every day.

Any bar serious about spirits has this book somewhere in the building. Grab a copy here and do the same.

4. Cocktail: The Drinks Bible for the 21st Century by Paul Harrington

This is the book that I had at my side for years as I taught myself to make cocktails the right way. Paul’s attitude toward the craft is opinionated and brilliant. I think about the words in this book nearly every night I’m behind the bar.

Sadly, this one’s out of print, so plan on spending a pretty large sum if you want to buy one of your own – but it’s worth it. If you do stumble across a copy in a used bookstore or garage sale, grab it without hesitation.

5. On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee

This book is subtitled The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, and chapter nine is the most in-depth, scientific analysis of the production of alcohol you’re going to find anywhere. Read it once, slowly, and then give yourself some time to digest. It’s a heavy read but worth the workout.

He’s not as fun as Alton Brown, but he may have taught the man everything he knows. Pick up your own copy here.

6. Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails by Ted Haigh

This book is the bible of cocktail archaeology, which has inspired a new generation of cocktail enthusiasts – just look at the vast proliferation of cocktail blogs for proof.

I’ll pick this one up from time to time, turn to a random page, and whip up one of whichever I find. I’ve never been disappointed yet. You can pick up a copy here.

7. The Savoy Cocktail Book by Harry Craddock

The problem with huge drink encyclopedias is that they often contain recipes of questionable origin and proportions. This book is no different in that regard, yet it still remains the quintessential reference on Prohibition-era drinking. I often absentmindedly turn to it first.

Buy The Savoy Cocktail Book here, and then follow along here as Erik Ellestad makes every single drink in the book and reports back with a write-up complete with photo. Amazing.

8. A History of the World in Six Glasses by Tom Standage

Once again, you can’t begin to understand where you’re going if you don’t know where you’ve been. Not content to be a mere history of beverages, this book is truly a history of human civilization as seen through beer, wine, coffee, tea, spirits, and Coca-Cola.

I find myself having to buy this one from time to time, as it seems to be the first books I want to loan out. Get yourself a loaner here.

9. Straight Up or On The Rocks by William Grimes

New York Times restaurant critic William Grimes understands something a lot of people take for granted: the cocktail, like jazz music or mass production, is one of America’s greatest contributions to the world. Follow along as he details why this is, and provides additional commentary to augment the experience.

The good news is that a book this good is fairly inexpensive and plentiful. Pick up a copy here.

10. What to Drink with What You Eat by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page

Sometimes consuming alcohol is something done alone at an airport bar, a necessary drug dose taken before a bumpy ride. But when alcohol shows its true beauty is when it is enjoyed with good food. This book not only helps take some of the mystery out of pairing alcohol with food, it also helps open the door to approaching booze from a more culinary perspective.

This one came out just last year, so it still runs a little steep. Pick up a copy here, or just add it to your Wish List and hope that someone takes notice this season.

I’m sure you’ve seen some glaring omissions on this list, so feel free to leave your bartender book recommendations in the comments below.

Comments

30 Responses to “Ten Books Every Bartender Should Own”

01 Oct 2007 at 9:24 PM 1. erik_flannestad

Cool, Jeff, thanks for the shout out, and for reminding me I need to read McGee and Dornenburg/Page.

Maybe I can get through them while I wait for the Wondrich and Felten books in November…
01 Oct 2007 at 9:59 PM 2. Jeffrey

Erik, I came very close to including the Felten book on this list (I had the very good fortune to receive an advance copy last month) but ultimately William Grimes narrowly edged it out.

However, look for a full review when as soon as there’s a cover image available!
01 Oct 2007 at 11:18 PM 3. kevin l

Great list. A few others I like: “The Gentleman’s Companion” by Charles Baker, for the writing alone. A great historical perspective can be found in “And a Bottle of Rum” by Wayne Curtis. And for those that want to dive in deep for some new ideas, I really like the other book by Dornenburg and Page called “Culinary Artistry”, “Aroma” by Mandy Aftel and Daniel Patterson and “The Joy of Pickling” by Linda Ziedrich. Oh I almost forgot one of my favorites “The World Guide to Spirits, Aperitifs and Cocktails” by Tony Lord. Amazing pictures and artwork. I should stop now.
02 Oct 2007 at 6:59 AM 4. Stephen Beaumont

An impressive and mostly well-thought-out list, Jeffrey. BUT, shouldn’t every good bartender have at least a rudimentary understanding of wine and beer, as well? That being the case, and I very much think it is, I’ll cast a vote for the inclusion of Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion to Wine and Michael Jackson’s Beer Companion, the latter surely the best beer book ever written.
02 Oct 2007 at 8:35 AM 5. Jeffrey

Kevin, “The Gentleman’s Companion” and “Trader Vic’s Bartender’s Guide” were both on my list, as was “And a Bottle of Rum”, but man, oh, man, keeping it down to ten is pretty tough!

And great inclusions, Stephen. The beer and wine books are pretty glaring omissions to be sure. I didn’t include Michael Jackson’s Beer Companion because I don’t actually own it, so maybe it’s now time for me to do a little shopping of my own…
02 Oct 2007 at 10:58 AM 6. Jeff Frane

I could have used this list a week or so back, when I was busy phoning Ryan from the cocktail section at Barnes & Noble. I didn’t come away with any of these, mostly because they didn’t have the Savoy book at all.

The Beer Companion is a good option, and I would highly recommend Jackson’s book on Belgian beers. There are a lot of questionable titles in the beer field, but both of those are solid.

Eh, looks like the Companion is out of print and Amazon is quoting ridiculous prices. You can borrow my copy, or ask Ryan if he’s got one.
02 Oct 2007 at 2:25 PM 7. kevin l

Speaking of “quoting ridiculous prices”, have any of you (or anyone reading this) read the Bernard DeVoto book “The Hour”? I’ve always wanted to check it out and I really enjoyed some of his other work, but i have a hard time with the idea of shelling out 80 to 150 bucks for a book.
02 Oct 2007 at 3:42 PM 8. Jeffrey

I haven’t but it’s another one of those that I’ve been wanting to read.

I’m sure anyone reading an erudite website such as mine is familiar with the works of Bernard DeVoto, but in a nutshell he was one of the great American historians, a celebrated writer and editor and the curator of Mark Twain’s writings.

In 1951 he wrote The Hour, which to the best of my understanding is a treatise on the sacred qualities of the great American bar. An excerpt:

Never be cynical about bars, though it is right to be wary. A glory of American culture is that there is no place so far and no village so small that you cannot find a bar when you want to. (True, in some of the ruder states it must present itself fictitiously as a club or nostalgically as a speakeasy.) Many are more resourceful than the label admits, many others water their whiskey, many are bad or even lousy. Amost all provide instructions for the inquiring mind in the cubic capacity of glassware and how the eye may be misled by the shape and the hand by weight. But do not scorn any of them, not even the neon-lighted or the television-equipped, for any may sustain you in a needful hour. And each of us knows a fair number of good bars and perhaps even a great one. The good bar extends across America, the quiet place, the place that answers to your mood, the upholder of the tavern’s great tradition, the welcomiing shelter and refuge and sanctuary — and any man of virtue and studious habits may count on finding it. If you hear of any I’ve missed, let me know. Let us all know.

Yeah, it looks like something right up my alley. You can find a few fairly expensive copies here, but as far as I know it’s not in reprint.

Oh, and that excerpt came from here.
03 Oct 2007 at 7:18 AM 9. Kevin Erskine

For those who really want to step their skills up Gary Regan and wife, Mardee, run a 2-day program called “Cocktails in the Country”.

Dale DeGroff is a nice guy, consummate professional and I love his “The Craft of the Cocktail” book.

Also some guy named Stephen Beaumont knows a fair bit about beers as well and has written some books that should be in every beer lover’s library. :)
03 Oct 2007 at 1:29 PM 10. Jeffrey

I’ve wanted to attend Cocktails in the Country for a while now, the timing has sadly never been convenient for me. One day…

I did have the good fortune to meet Dale DeGroff in Las Vegas earlier this year, and he is as pleasant as he is brilliant. His book “The Craft of the Cocktail” was on my original list until I remembered the Harold McGee book.

And as for Stephen Beaumont… I’ve been meaning to give his books a read for quite a while now. Gawsh, this shopping list is getting longer by the day!
04 Oct 2007 at 3:13 PM 11. Jeff Frane

Great. Now I have a stack of new books and I’m down $60. I could have bought drinks with that $60!
05 Oct 2007 at 5:56 AM 12. Stephen Beaumont

Jeffrey, email me your address and I’ll post off a copy of my decade-out-of-print tome, A Taste for Beer, still one of my personal favourites out of all my books. Also the only one I have stocks of…
05 Oct 2007 at 6:01 AM 13. Kevin Erskine

To take us totally off topic,
Stephen, I had a Hitachino White Ale last night. I thought it was fantastic. Have you tried it? I’ve heard that Hitachino has a few very good beers.
05 Oct 2007 at 8:44 AM 14. Stephen Beaumont

Check your email, Kevin.
05 Oct 2007 at 1:06 PM 15. 6th Floor Blogger

Sweet. I actually own two of those books already(the complete book of spirits and what to drink with what you eat)
05 Oct 2007 at 8:16 PM 16. david shenaut

I have read “History Of The in Six Glasses” many times it was given to me by an english regular of mine. I would have done much better in world history had my teachers…. anyway the book belongs on the list. I also now have plenty of shopping to do.
07 Oct 2007 at 3:41 AM 17. Sean Bigley

Hey Jeffrey.

Have you checked out “The Art of the Bar”? It’s one of my “new” favorites. Check it out if you get a chance.
07 Oct 2007 at 2:34 PM 18. Jeffrey

Oh Sean, I’ve been a huge fan of that book since it came out! Another one I considered for this list, but alas, ten is a tough call to make…
11 Oct 2007 at 5:56 AM 19. Donny

To take this thread a little off course… A neighborhood Manhasset bar is a lead character in “The Tender Bar” by JR Moehringer, a wonderfully-woven boy-to-man memoir. Warm, funny, sad, outrageous — a must read.
12 Oct 2007 at 9:07 AM 20. Lance Mayhew

Hey, I’m surprised that no one has mentioned Barbara Holland’s “The Joy of Drinking” yet. Its a small book, but an essential read for any bartender.
12 Oct 2007 at 9:14 AM 21. Jeffrey Morgenthaler

Hmmmm… I haven’t read that one yet, Lance. However, thanks to Amazon’s used selection and ten bucks, one is soon to be arriving on its way to my house.
12 Oct 2007 at 11:35 AM 22. erik_flannestad

Couple Alcohol trivia and anecdote type books I quite enjoyed were “Alcoholica Esoterica” by Ian Lendler and “Mondo Cocktail” by Christine Sismondo.
12 Oct 2007 at 12:38 PM 23. Jeffrey Morgenthaler

This thread is getting out of control! I’m going to have to add those to my wish list, Erik, I’ve already dropped my monthly book allowance in one week…
14 Oct 2007 at 8:13 PM 24. Trevor

I have shelf full of bartender guides and cocktail books.

In my experience, the Bartender’s Black Book is indispensable. I’ve purchased one for every bartender I’ve ever trained.

I’ve also found great inspiration in the Diffordguide series of cocktail books.

Diffordguide to Cocktails
Simon Difford
http://www.amazon.com/Bartenders-Black-Book-Eighth-Classic/dp/1891267310

Bartender’s Black Book
Stephen Kittredge
http://www.amazon.com/Bartenders-Black-Book-Eighth-Classic/dp/1891267310
14 Oct 2007 at 10:51 PM 25. david shenaut

The Bartender’s Black Book should never be present behind any self-respecting bar. I still own it but because it soaks up beer better than most coasters. Books like that have done to cocktails what Redbull has done to young the impressionable palates that I turn back to the door nightly when I refuse to make any drinks with “pucker”.
15 Oct 2007 at 4:33 PM 26. Jeffrey Morgenthaler

David, I’ve recommended the Bartender’s Black Book before. I think it’s a great resource for all those drink recipes that we all have either no capacity or no patience for.

I can never remember what goes in a Brave Bull, a Sex on the Beach, a Purple Hooter or a Hop Skip and Go Naked. I don’t get orders for them that often, and I don’t really care that much.

But when someone comes in to my bar and I can’t convince them to try one of our fabulous cocktails, I’m always more than happy to make them whatever they’d like – I can almost always find the recipe in the Black Book.
16 Oct 2007 at 1:43 PM 27. david shenaut

I suppose I should be more humble, still I think we should have some standards. Should I be expected to properly produce and be proud of such drinks as “Top Gun”, “Train Wreck”, and “Tripple PHAT Limeade” (look these up for a laugh they are all on pg. 153). Sure lets give people what they want. You know what… I change my mind I retract my last statement. I am going to bring this book to work tonight. I have ran out of bar jokes.
16 Oct 2007 at 1:47 PM 28. Jeffrey Morgenthaler

David, I’ll be the first to admit that a lot of the popular drinks being created by bartenders out there are just plain…gross. But I don’t think that’s the book’s fault.

I always try to talk someone into something better, “Lemon Drop, huh? Have you ever tried a Sidecar?”, but when that fails, it’s nice to know that I’ve got the recipe for just about anything in my little library behind the bar.
25 Oct 2007 at 2:01 PM 29. Darryl

I’d like to second Lance’s suggestion of “The Joy of Drinking”. More importantly, why has Mr. Boston Platinum Edition not even recieved honorable mention?
25 Oct 2007 at 2:24 PM 30. Jeffrey Morgenthaler

Agreed, Darryl. I’m reading “The Joy of Drinking” right now, and it’s absolutely sublime.

However, I’ve never been a fan of the recipes found in the Mr. Boston’s Guide.

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