Inspired by a visit to see Tony Conigliaro at the unnamed bar at 69 Colebrooke Row in London last fall, where Manhattans are aged in glass vessels to sublime and subtle effect, the barrel aged cocktails I’ve been serving at Clyde Common this year are a decidedly American curiosity.
The rub of aging cocktails in a glass bottle is that the whole premise is built upon subtlety, as we know that spirits aged in glass or steel do so at an unremarkable pace. Being from the United States, where – as everyone is aware – bigger equals better, I pondered the following question: what if you could prepare a large batch of a single, spirit-driven cocktail and age it in a used oak barrel?
A hundred some-odd dollars in liquor later, I was nervously pouring a gallon of pre-batched rye Manhattans into a small, used oak cask whose previous contents were a gallon Madeira wine. I plugged the barrel and sat back in anxious anticipation; if the experiment was a success I’d have a delicious cocktail to share at the bar – if it was a failure then I’d be pouring the restaurant’s money down the floor drain.
Over the next several weeks I popped open the barrel to test my little concoction until I stumbled upon the magic mark at five-to-six weeks. And there it was, lying beautifully on the the finish: a soft blend of oak, wine, caramel and char. That first batch sold out in a matter of days and I was left with a compelling need to push the process even further.
Now, three gallons of Negroni might not be practical for the home enthusiast, but the average bar or restaurant should be able to afford that sort of quantity quite easily. For those of you trying this at home, try searching the internet for one-gallon charred oak casks (stay away from the fancy lacquered kind meant for display in dens and 1980s wine bars) and be sure to let us know what you find in the comments section below.
We procured a small number of used whiskey casks from the Tuthilltown distillery and proceeded to fill them with a large batch of Negronis; and that’s when the magic of barrel aged cocktails grabbed our attention. After six weeks in the bourbon barrel, our Negroni emerged a rare beauty. The sweet vermouth so slightly oxidized, the color paler and rosier than the original, the mid-palate softly mingled with whiskey, the finish long and lingering with oak tannins. We knew we were on to something unique and immediately made plans to take the cask aging program to the next level.
Negronis are now prepared in five-gallon batches and poured into multiple bourbon barrels. Robert Hess’ ubiquitous Trident cocktail is currently resting inside single-malt barrels. The El Presidente (à laMatt Robold), Deshlers, Remember the Maines, they’re all receiving the oaked treatment in a little storage room in the basement of the restaurant that I refer to as my “office”.
Once the cocktail is aged long enough for my taste, I then drain the bottle, straining out any charred bits of wood, and bottle the contents for use by my bartenders. To order, the cocktail is then measured out and poured over ice in a mixing glass, stirred, strained into a cocktail glass, and then garnished with the appropriate garnish. It’s quick and simple, as all of the real work has already been done by the barrel.
Anyway, on to the recipes. As simple as it seems to do, I figured not everyone is going to want to do the math to get started on some of these recipes, so here are a few I’ve figured out:
Negroni
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) dry gin
128 oz sweet vermouth
128 oz Campari
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel. Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Manhattan
Makes Three Gallons
256 oz (approximately ten 750ml bottles) rye whiskey
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) sweet vermouth
7 oz Angostura bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a barrel that has previously stored sherry, Madeira, or port wine). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Trident
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) aquavit
128 oz dry sherry
128 oz Cynar
7 oz peach bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a used single malt barrel). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments section below.
My problem with homemade tonic water has always been a flavor profile that was too esoteric for the general audience. This recipe takes some of the positive qualities people have come to understand from commercial tonic water and updated them with fresh ingredients.
One question I'm often asked is "Do you have any drink-related book recommendations?" Well, funny you should ask, I've compiled a list of the ten books every professional bartender or home mixologist should own. I keep every one of these close at hand and have read most of them several times. I suggest you do the same.
The problem with living in Oregon is the absence of little wooden shacks by the sea that sell cases of fresh ginger beer stacked on back porches. But with some readily-available ingredients, a recipe I've been revising for several years - and a few free minutes - I can easily transport myself to a little fishing boat on the ocean as I sip a Dark and Stormy made with fresh, house-made ginger beer.
It's always mojito season somewhere, so this advice is timely in your area about half the year. Wether you're making them or simply enjoying them, this advice will help you look like a pro in no time at all.
The flavors of the Richmond Gimlet are imbued with sunshine. Fresh mint mingling with the herbaceousness of gin and the tartness of lime have made this drink a Eugene classic for many years now.
You'll get a lot of snarky advice on this site about how to make a proper drink, but if you ever need to know what not to do, this is the video for you.
Not to be confused with the Spanish wine-and-fruit-based alcoholic beverage sangria, sangrita (meaning "little blood") is a traditional accompaniment to a tequila served completo; a non-alcoholic sipper that cleanses the palate between fiery doses of agave.
The world of booze can be mystifying to people that don't work in bars or around alcohol all the time. I hear a lot of assumptions about the industry I'm in that are - much like 90% of what you hear in bars - completely false. Here are a few you've probably heard yourself.
The debate rages on: Should we try to look cool and crack open the Boston shaker or be tidy professionals and use the Hawthorne strainer the way God intended? Be sure to leave your two cents in the comments section.
The traditional garnish for a Pisco Sour is a couple of drops of bitters in the foam, but I've never been particularly impressed with the way these few paltry drops of bitters sat in their little egg-white mattress and didn't play along with the rest of the drink. I envisioned a Pisco Sour with a uniformly-distributed bitters-scorched foam: slightly crisp as the fire burnt the sugars, and slightly warm as the foam insulated the rest of the frosty cocktail from the heat. A pisco creme brulée in a glass!
I get so many visitors looking for tips on how to write a bartending resume that I thought I should finally post a tutorial on how to write your own. Click the headline to read more.
I always love showing up to a party with a gallon jug of pre-mixed margaritas, so I've decided to share my recipe. This margarita recipe is the perfect blend of strong, sweet, and sour. But be warned: this recipe packs a serious punch.
There isn't much I can say about this video that hasn't been said already. If you've read anything I've written about cocktails, you'll understand why this video symbolizes everything wrong with the state of bartending in America today. Watch and learn, but be warned: this one isn't for the feint of heart.
About Me
My name is Jeff Morgenthaler and I'm the head bartender at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon.
I've been tending bar since 1996 and writing about it since 2004. Mixing drinks has become something of a passion for me in recent years, and I strive to elevate the experience of having a drink from something mundane to something more culinary.
The writing I do here is intended as a work in progress. My recipes are like my opinions: they are constantly being revised and refined as I work them through my mind and my fingers. Comments and participation are encouraged, so please don't feel the need to tread lightly here.
…are coming to Eugene! The authors of one of my favorite books (and many others) are going to be in town for a very special pairing dinner at one of my favorite restaurants (and previous employer: hi, guys!). I just made my reservation after receiving this in my inbox:
Please join us [Wednesday, August 6] for an evening of food, wine and insight at Marché, with two of our favorite writers. Enjoy a tasting menu with wine pairings and discussion with Washington Post wine columnists Karen Page & Andrew Dornenburg, winners of the 2007 IACP “Cookbook of the Year” award and the Georges Duboeuf “Wine Book of the Year” award for What To Drink With What You Eat, and James Beard Award-winning authors of Becoming A Chef, Culinary Artistry, and other bestselling titles.
We’ll have a fabulous tasting menu, wine pairings (and some fascinating non-wine pairings) and a copy of the book for you, plus a portion of the proceeds will go to benefit the Jane Eyre McDonald Voice Scholarship Fund at the Eugene Hearing & Speech Center.
No mention of the wine (or “fascinating non-wine”) pairings, but knowing those involved there will be no disappointments. (See menu below)
If you live in or near Eugene, this is the culinary event of the summer. Dinner is $100 per person, and reservations are not only required but will be moving quickly. Call (541) 342-3612, Extension 2 for reservations. See you there!
Menu
Amuse Bouche
Northwest oyster with cucumber granita
First Course
Albacore crudo with capers, lemon, arugula & olive oil
I’m pairing the drinks. Wines with every course, tentatively as follows: Bubbly with the amuse, pinot blanc with the albacore crudo, a roussanne with the pasta course, pinot noir with the duck, a syrah with the cheese course and a late harvest viognier with dessert. All subject to change (and producers to be confirmed), especially if I can find a way to work a rosé in there.
In addition to the wines, in the wide-ranging and inclusive spirit of the book I plan to pair a saison beer with the pasta course and a whiskey- or brandy-based cocktail (recipe to be devised) with the duck. In the spirit of my self-righteous closed-mindedness I will not be pairing tea or especially particular kinds of water with anything other than the couple aspirin I take the next morning.
This dinner should be really, really great, as should the speakers. Plus, everyone who attends gets a copy of the book. Since it’s a benefit, you might be able to write the dinner off as a tax-deductible donation, too, although you should probably consult someone considerably smarter than me on the particulars of that.
I absolutely hate it when someone sends me a box full of sex toys in the mail. Sure, it might sound like fun to some of you (you know who you are), but receiving a big box of free sex is much more trouble than it’s worth. Believe me. So I get a [...]
…are coming to Eugene! The authors of one of my favorite books (and many others) are going to be in town for a very special pairing dinner at one of my favorite restaurants (and previous employer: hi, guys!). I just made my reservation after receiving this in my inbox:
25 Jul 2008 at 4:11 pm 1. Chris
Holy smokes that’s awesome! One of my favorite books as well & a really great educational work in general.
Have fun man!
25 Jul 2008 at 4:13 pm 2. Matt Lanning
what’s the date of this one? looked on the Marche site, but no word there, either…
26 Jul 2008 at 4:13 am 3. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Uh, oops, sorry, Matt. It’s Wednesday, August 6th. 6PM
26 Jul 2008 at 7:38 am 4. Jeff Frane
Is Ryan involved in the wine choices? I know that Marché has a great wine list, so the decisions are likely to be adventurous.
26 Jul 2008 at 1:18 pm 5. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
I’m hoping Ryan and James West are involved in putting something together.
26 Jul 2008 at 2:04 pm 6. Eugenia
Looks wonderful — I’ll be there in spirit!
27 Jul 2008 at 11:20 am 7. Ryan Dawe-Stotz
I’m pairing the drinks. Wines with every course, tentatively as follows: Bubbly with the amuse, pinot blanc with the albacore crudo, a roussanne with the pasta course, pinot noir with the duck, a syrah with the cheese course and a late harvest viognier with dessert. All subject to change (and producers to be confirmed), especially if I can find a way to work a rosé in there.
In addition to the wines, in the wide-ranging and inclusive spirit of the book I plan to pair a saison beer with the pasta course and a whiskey- or brandy-based cocktail (recipe to be devised) with the duck. In the spirit of my self-righteous closed-mindedness I will not be pairing tea or especially particular kinds of water with anything other than the couple aspirin I take the next morning.
This dinner should be really, really great, as should the speakers. Plus, everyone who attends gets a copy of the book. Since it’s a benefit, you might be able to write the dinner off as a tax-deductible donation, too, although you should probably consult someone considerably smarter than me on the particulars of that.
27 Jul 2008 at 7:20 pm 8. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Ryan, that sounds fantastic. And if you need any help researching whiskey or brandy (wink, wink), just be sure to let me know.
See you then!
31 Jul 2008 at 5:52 pm 9. 6th Floor Bloggers
That sounds like fun, I love that book!