Latest Drink Recipe

In my opinion, one of the greatest triumphs of the cocktail renaissance is the rediscovery of the classic Old Fashioned. I’ve often spoken of how at some point after the repeal of Prohibition, the Old Fashioned became lost and possibly confused with a long-forgotten drink called a Smash (basically a tarted-up Mint Julep covered in fruit), a mere husk of its former, glorious self.
For decades, bartenders just like me served a limp, weak concoction consisting of a half-muddled sugar cube, a mashed-up neon red cherry and orange, a splash of whiskey, and some soda water drowning the results.
With a little luck, and a lot of hard work, that’s all changed with the renewed interest in classic cocktails. Now at any given night at my bar you can find literally a dozen people sipping on two ounces bourbon touched with a teaspoon of sugar and two dashes of bitters, garnished with a simple orange twist over a couple big ice cubes.
But don’t try to pull that bullshit with the good people of the Great State of Wisconsin, where the Brandy Old Fashioned rules supreme. It’s not the same drink as above, it just shares a name. And if you make it right, really right, it’s a damn delicious cocktail and worthy of examination.
Being located in a hotel, we’re used to serving folks from all over the world. And the first time I witnessed a guest from Wisconsin stare blankly as one of my bartenders handed over two ounces of Cognac touched with a teaspoon of sugar and two dashes of bitters and garnished with a simple orange twist over a couple big ice cubes, I knew some further training was in order.
So in the name of making cocktails – all cocktails – with as much of our hearts as we can offer, I present to you what I believe to be the perfect Brandy Old Fashioned… Wisconsin-style.
I start with an old fashioned glass I’ve chilled in the freezer. Call it a tumbler, call it a double rocks glass, or call it a bucket, it’s a glass you’re familiar with. To that I add two dashes of Angostura bitters and a teaspoon of sugar. If I’m in a hurry I use a 2:1 simple syrup, but if I’m going to spend some time, I use a sugar cube. The sugar cube is preferable here because it’s going to add some friction to the muddling we’re about to do. Brace yourselves, cocktail “nerds”.

Next I’ll take a thick-cut orange wedge, and a cherry. The usual suspect here is a grocery store maraschino cherry, but I always choose a brandied Amarena cherry. Remember, you’re going to get out what you put in, so a quality cherry is going to make the drink that much better.
I muddle the sugar, bitters, orange wedge and cherry into a thick paste, careful not to touch the orange peel too much as it’ll bring unwanted bitterness to the party – just work around the peel and pulverize that orange meat.

Your standard Brandy Old Fashioned brandy of choice is Korbel: cheap California brandy. Considering the hundreds of thousands of cases they ship to Wisconsin every year, it might be considered sacrosanct to use anything else. But if you want to do this right, really right, then do yourself a favor and use some good Cognac. I have my preferred brandy, you have yours.

At this point your typical Wisconsinite barkeep is going to add ice and finish the drink in one of two main ways: sweet or sour. Those who take it sweet will ask for a splash of Sprite or 7-Up, those who take it sour get a dose of Collins Mix or Squirt. To me, it’s just a way of watering down the drink, so I leave out the soda and take a more… cocktail-y method.

Crushed ice is a must for me whenever I whip up a Brandy Old Fashioned. I always skip the soda and let the tiny shards of ice do the work, taming those strong, sweet flavors and turning this into a drink you can sip slowly.

As for a garnish, most will throw a “flag” of an orange wedge and a cherry spiked through with a wooden toothpick, but my take here is that those things are already in the drink, so I skip ‘em. Besides, how pretty does that look without the goofy fruit salad perched over the top?
You know, it’s something to enjoy sipping on while you cook up some bratwurst and onions in a boiling kettle of beer before everyone comes over to watch the Packers game. Drink accordingly.
Brandy Old Fashioned
1 sugar cube or 1 tsp 2:1 simple syrup
2 dashes Angostura bitters
1 orange wedge
1 cherry, preferably Amarena or Maraska
2 oz brandy or Cognac
In a chilled old fashioned glass, muddle the sugar, bitters, orange wedge and cherry into a thick paste, careful not to work the orange peel. Add brandy or Cognac, stir, and fill glass with crushed ice and serve.
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About Me
My name is Jeff Morgenthaler and I'm the bar manager at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon.

I've been tending bar since 1996 and writing about it since 2004. I started tending bar while getting my degree in Interior Architecture, and slowly I came to the conclusion that bartending was what I really loved, and that I might as well drop everything and focus on being a professional bartender. Over the years I have strived, both behind the bar and with this website, to elevate the experience of having a drink from something mundane to something more culinary.
The writing I do here is intended as a work in progress. My recipes are like my opinions: they are constantly being revised and refined as I work them through my mind and my fingers. Comments and participation are encouraged, so please don't feel the need to tread lightly here.
02 Dec 2008 at 11:05 AM 1. jfs
It’s a bit late at this point, but has anybody designed any flyers advertising repeal day? I’d totally be willing to print some off and leave them at all my favorite bars to help get the word out.
02 Dec 2008 at 12:42 PM 2. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
jfs – I don’t know of any posters out there, so by all means, please do spread the word!
02 Dec 2008 at 4:23 PM 3. Jeff Frane
That Wall Street Journal column mentions some guy who has a name just like yours!
Referenced in the WSJ? My god, they’ll never get your head through the door at Bel Ami.
02 Dec 2008 at 7:50 PM 4. Eugenia
What’s doing in *your* city, Mr. M? I know we’ll be missing one person, but is there a celebration planned in your absence?
03 Dec 2008 at 2:07 AM 5. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Frane – Yeah, funny, there must be two bartender/bloggers in Oregon with the same name…
Eugenia – The sad irony is that I’ve been so busy as of late that I haven’t had time to plan any major celebrations in my own damn town. You will all have to carry the torch for me and be sure to get lots of photos ;)
03 Dec 2008 at 4:31 AM 6. Heath Hutto
Jeff,
You are even more famous than I thought! A mention in The New York Times for your tonic water:
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/12/03/dining/03bars.html?pagewanted=2 !
And to think that I saw the precursors to such a thing in jars of blueberry-infused spirits at Bamboo so many years ago.
03 Dec 2008 at 11:52 AM 7. jfs
Jeffrey,
Whipped this up real quick. Nothing special but already gave out a few last night. People love the idea once they know about it. :)
http://uploads.evilavatarcomics.com/Slack3r78/repealday.pdf
04 Dec 2008 at 8:25 AM 8. Gabriel
Jeffrey, great work in continuing to get support and garner attention for Repeal Day. I was hoping to make it to D.C. for the festivities. Alas, it was not in the cards. I look forward to seeing what you’ll write up from the events.
Instead, since I’m not heading out to D.C., we’ll be celebrating tonight at the Mixoloseum Bar (bar.mixoloseum.com) and dedicating our weekly Thursday Drink Night to Repeal Day and creating and testing classic-style cocktails. We’d love to have anyone that can make it join the festivities starting at 7pm EST and going, at least, until Dec. 5th hits across the US.
04 Dec 2008 at 11:38 PM 9. sku
Jeff, Happy Repeal Day. This has really taken off this year and you deserve huge credit. I know of several Repeal Day parties and specials in LA.
But let’s face it, repeal was only partial. I want to buy booze from the distiller, on Ebay and from European websites. Let’s complete repeal, get rid of the three tier system and let 100 whiskies bloom.
05 Dec 2008 at 5:25 AM 10. Lis Riba
I’ve been digging thru the newspaper archives for articles from the original day. I just reposted my favorite headline (the New York Times warning that “orgies are frowned upon”), but there are many more clips I hope to post thruout the day.