Inspired by a visit to see Tony Conigliaro at the unnamed bar at 69 Colebrooke Row in London last fall, where Manhattans are aged in glass vessels to sublime and subtle effect, the barrel aged cocktails I’ve been serving at Clyde Common this year are a decidedly American curiosity.
The rub of aging cocktails in a glass bottle is that the whole premise is built upon subtlety, as we know that spirits aged in glass or steel do so at an unremarkable pace. Being from the United States, where – as everyone is aware – bigger equals better, I pondered the following question: what if you could prepare a large batch of a single, spirit-driven cocktail and age it in a used oak barrel?
A hundred some-odd dollars in liquor later, I was nervously pouring a gallon of pre-batched rye Manhattans into a small, used oak cask whose previous contents were a gallon Madeira wine. I plugged the barrel and sat back in anxious anticipation; if the experiment was a success I’d have a delicious cocktail to share at the bar – if it was a failure then I’d be pouring the restaurant’s money down the floor drain.
Over the next several weeks I popped open the barrel to test my little concoction until I stumbled upon the magic mark at five-to-six weeks. And there it was, lying beautifully on the the finish: a soft blend of oak, wine, caramel and char. That first batch sold out in a matter of days and I was left with a compelling need to push the process even further.
Now, three gallons of Negroni might not be practical for the home enthusiast, but the average bar or restaurant should be able to afford that sort of quantity quite easily. For those of you trying this at home, try searching the internet for one-gallon charred oak casks (stay away from the fancy lacquered kind meant for display in dens and 1980s wine bars) and be sure to let us know what you find in the comments section below.
We procured a small number of used whiskey casks from the Tuthilltown distillery and proceeded to fill them with a large batch of Negronis; and that’s when the magic of barrel aged cocktails grabbed our attention. After six weeks in the bourbon barrel, our Negroni emerged a rare beauty. The sweet vermouth so slightly oxidized, the color paler and rosier than the original, the mid-palate softly mingled with whiskey, the finish long and lingering with oak tannins. We knew we were on to something unique and immediately made plans to take the cask aging program to the next level.
Negronis are now prepared in five-gallon batches and poured into multiple bourbon barrels. Robert Hess’ ubiquitous Trident cocktail is currently resting inside single-malt barrels. The El Presidente (à laMatt Robold), Deshlers, Remember the Maines, they’re all receiving the oaked treatment in a little storage room in the basement of the restaurant that I refer to as my “office”.
Once the cocktail is aged long enough for my taste, I then drain the bottle, straining out any charred bits of wood, and bottle the contents for use by my bartenders. To order, the cocktail is then measured out and poured over ice in a mixing glass, stirred, strained into a cocktail glass, and then garnished with the appropriate garnish. It’s quick and simple, as all of the real work has already been done by the barrel.
Anyway, on to the recipes. As simple as it seems to do, I figured not everyone is going to want to do the math to get started on some of these recipes, so here are a few I’ve figured out:
Negroni
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) dry gin
128 oz sweet vermouth
128 oz Campari
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel. Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Manhattan
Makes Three Gallons
256 oz (approximately ten 750ml bottles) rye whiskey
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) sweet vermouth
7 oz Angostura bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a barrel that has previously stored sherry, Madeira, or port wine). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Trident
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) aquavit
128 oz dry sherry
128 oz Cynar
7 oz peach bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a used single malt barrel). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments section below.
My problem with homemade tonic water has always been a flavor profile that was too esoteric for the general audience. This recipe takes some of the positive qualities people have come to understand from commercial tonic water and updated them with fresh ingredients.
One question I'm often asked is "Do you have any drink-related book recommendations?" Well, funny you should ask, I've compiled a list of the ten books every professional bartender or home mixologist should own. I keep every one of these close at hand and have read most of them several times. I suggest you do the same.
The problem with living in Oregon is the absence of little wooden shacks by the sea that sell cases of fresh ginger beer stacked on back porches. But with some readily-available ingredients, a recipe I've been revising for several years - and a few free minutes - I can easily transport myself to a little fishing boat on the ocean as I sip a Dark and Stormy made with fresh, house-made ginger beer.
It's always mojito season somewhere, so this advice is timely in your area about half the year. Wether you're making them or simply enjoying them, this advice will help you look like a pro in no time at all.
The flavors of the Richmond Gimlet are imbued with sunshine. Fresh mint mingling with the herbaceousness of gin and the tartness of lime have made this drink a Eugene classic for many years now.
You'll get a lot of snarky advice on this site about how to make a proper drink, but if you ever need to know what not to do, this is the video for you.
Not to be confused with the Spanish wine-and-fruit-based alcoholic beverage sangria, sangrita (meaning "little blood") is a traditional accompaniment to a tequila served completo; a non-alcoholic sipper that cleanses the palate between fiery doses of agave.
The world of booze can be mystifying to people that don't work in bars or around alcohol all the time. I hear a lot of assumptions about the industry I'm in that are - much like 90% of what you hear in bars - completely false. Here are a few you've probably heard yourself.
The debate rages on: Should we try to look cool and crack open the Boston shaker or be tidy professionals and use the Hawthorne strainer the way God intended? Be sure to leave your two cents in the comments section.
The traditional garnish for a Pisco Sour is a couple of drops of bitters in the foam, but I've never been particularly impressed with the way these few paltry drops of bitters sat in their little egg-white mattress and didn't play along with the rest of the drink. I envisioned a Pisco Sour with a uniformly-distributed bitters-scorched foam: slightly crisp as the fire burnt the sugars, and slightly warm as the foam insulated the rest of the frosty cocktail from the heat. A pisco creme brulée in a glass!
I get so many visitors looking for tips on how to write a bartending resume that I thought I should finally post a tutorial on how to write your own. Click the headline to read more.
I always love showing up to a party with a gallon jug of pre-mixed margaritas, so I've decided to share my recipe. This margarita recipe is the perfect blend of strong, sweet, and sour. But be warned: this recipe packs a serious punch.
There isn't much I can say about this video that hasn't been said already. If you've read anything I've written about cocktails, you'll understand why this video symbolizes everything wrong with the state of bartending in America today. Watch and learn, but be warned: this one isn't for the feint of heart.
About Me
My name is Jeff Morgenthaler and I'm the head bartender at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon.
I've been tending bar since 1996 and writing about it since 2004. Mixing drinks has become something of a passion for me in recent years, and I strive to elevate the experience of having a drink from something mundane to something more culinary.
The writing I do here is intended as a work in progress. My recipes are like my opinions: they are constantly being revised and refined as I work them through my mind and my fingers. Comments and participation are encouraged, so please don't feel the need to tread lightly here.
It’s official! Starting on Monday, January 7th, my co-bartender Scott Butler and I will be officially heading up the bar at Bel Ami, located in the Midtown Marketplace at 1591 Willamette Street here in Eugene, right across the street from the bar where I learned to mix cocktails all those years ago.
This is a great way to start off the new year, and we’re excited to be working with everyone at Bel Ami. In the 3-or-so years they’ve been open, they’ve done a tremendous business and built up a loyal clientele. Now they’ve graciously allowed Scott and me to step in and run their bar and infuse it with our own sort of, uh, charm. We’ll be continuing our education and exploration of classic cocktails, modern flavors and timeless techniques.
Owned by local track hero and businessman Roscoe Devine, Midtown (and Bel Ami) is already at the top of the list in Eugene for their perfect coffee, an incredible selection of wines, the finest food, attentive service, and elegant atmosphere. Here’s to hoping that we can help make the bar an even more enjoyable place than it already is.
The bar at Bel Ami is open at 4:30, Monday-Saturday. Scott and I hope to see you there!
Congratulations on the move, although I’ve heard that the bar itself is smaller than your previous location, making it even more difficult to get close enough to watch you two geniuses at work. Maybe the only way to do that is to show up at 4:30.
Thanks, Jeff. Although there are more than a few out there who would take you to task for the term “geniuses”, we’ll take it in stride and remind you that we carry the Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve – the 20-year.
Angela and I missed you guys at El Vaquero tonight!! We will have to stop by Bel Ami to try your Spanish coffee at the new place.
Mike
10 Jan 2008 at 11:16 am 13. Karama
A bar is only as good as the people
tending it…and the two of you are the best! The drinks were great and
you guys have a way of making patrons feel appreciated and comfortable. The space suits you well. Great move!
Thanks for an enjoyable evening.
(See..I can be nice sometimes!!)
See you again soon:)
10 Jan 2008 at 2:44 pm 14. Lance J. Mayhew
I am SO tempted to embed a certain link in my comment, but I won’t. Suffice to say, google “bel ami” and you’ll be quite amused.
11 Jan 2008 at 12:17 am 15. Heath Hutto
Enjoy your new digs, then–I’ll stop by whenever I’m in town, and Bel Ami has the advantage of being more in the middle of my Rennies/Davis/Soriah run.
Also, I stopped by El Vaquero a week or so ago, and while I was sorry not to see you, was pleased to see the Dark and Stormy on the menu.
11 Jan 2008 at 12:55 pm 16. Angie
Hi Jeff,
A few words about traveling, cocktails, and your new locale.
After a long holiday break in a land devoid of fine cocktails, we returned to Portland on New Year’s Eve in search of a Sazerac and a fine Manhattan. We shook off the 737 cobwebs and headed straight to the Teardrop Lounge only to find them closed for a private event. We then dropped down to the Park Kitchen and found a similar sign in the window.
After two cocktail thwarts, we headed straight to Vaquero on Jan. 2 only to find…thwart number three.
No Jeff. No Scott. No “New Old-Fashioned.” The initial word at Vaquero was that you were on “hiatus.” I realized after a few minutes that this hiatus was permanent, but was relieved to find out that it was only a permanent break from 5th Street Market.
I look forward to seeing you both in the new location soon.
Heath: Great to hear you’re still around, I look forward to making you a cocktail in the near future.
Angie: Sorry to have provided the third in what sounds like a long series of twarts, but I assure you our new location is more than permanent.
See you both soon!
21 Jan 2008 at 5:24 pm 18. Chris
Hey Jeff and Scott – Congrats on the move! Melissa and I will have to stop in sometime soon. Your new digs don’t come with the Balvenie Portwood (or any other Balvenie than the Doublewood) does it??
See you soon.
Chris and Melissa
21 Jan 2008 at 6:08 pm 19. Siobhan
Congrats, boys! I’m a bit late to the game on reading up, but I just returned from a trip to Mexico. Don’t cry for me. ;)
Chris, we have a whole bunch of fun scotches for you to try, but not the Portwood yet.
And Siobhan, I’ll most likely see you in Portland very soon!
24 Jan 2008 at 3:24 pm 21. Lisa and Lori
Hey guys! Lori and I will definitely be visiting you at Bel Ami, but you may have to share us with Tim at the Wine Bar (We still love you the most though!LOL).
Dear Jeff, Does your bar have live music? The reason I am asking is because we perform as a fingerstyle guitar & percussion duo as shown on my site at GuitarSolo.com … click on the links there for sound tracks (CDs), gig performances, weddings, etc.. We primarily perform my originals and some classical to modern day acoustic (two guitars: acoustic and classical), and would possibly like to perform at your bar. I’ve played at many venues in Oregon since I moved here in May 05. Check us out when you have time, and please get back with me. Thanks, Bob
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05 Jan 2008 at 2:16 pm 1. Jacob G
Perfect coffee and great cocktails? Likes it! Congrats on the new gig.
05 Jan 2008 at 2:24 pm 2. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Thanks, Jacob!
05 Jan 2008 at 2:48 pm 3. canary
I was just there the other evening & heard the news. Congrats!! I’m so glad you two are staying together. :)
05 Jan 2008 at 2:50 pm 4. Dominik MJ
Congratulations – the change of the working place is anytime a bold one!
All the best and a lot of fun!
Unfortunately I won’t come in 2008 to Eugene – but if I’ll find a way to work in the US I’ll find a way to come to Eugene…
Cheers!
DMJ
05 Jan 2008 at 5:45 pm 5. Jimmy
you guys are “just friends,” right?
06 Jan 2008 at 12:18 am 6. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Dominik, if you ever make it to the Eugene, your drinks are certainly on me.
And Jimmy, we always tell people that we’re “Partners. But not ‘partners’, more like cops. But not like the cop from the Village People”
06 Jan 2008 at 5:32 pm 7. Jeff Frane
Congratulations on the move, although I’ve heard that the bar itself is smaller than your previous location, making it even more difficult to get close enough to watch you two geniuses at work. Maybe the only way to do that is to show up at 4:30.
Kind of a scary photo . . .
06 Jan 2008 at 10:57 pm 8. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Thanks, Jeff. Although there are more than a few out there who would take you to task for the term “geniuses”, we’ll take it in stride and remind you that we carry the Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve – the 20-year.
Hope to see you soon, at 4:30, of course!
08 Jan 2008 at 11:05 am 9. Marleigh
Congrats! It must be the gigantic four-leaf clover belt buckle that cinched the deal.
Now that you’ve let that Pappy Van Winkle bit slip, I’ll never be able to keep the boyfriend from dragging me up to Eugene for a visit.
08 Jan 2008 at 1:06 pm 10. canary
as always, excellent. you already seemed at home there. very classy bartending at a classy place!
08 Jan 2008 at 2:19 pm 11. erik_flannestad
Congrats, Jeff!
Best of luck in the new venture!
08 Jan 2008 at 8:37 pm 12. mike
Hey Jeff and Scott –
Angela and I missed you guys at El Vaquero tonight!! We will have to stop by Bel Ami to try your Spanish coffee at the new place.
Mike
10 Jan 2008 at 11:16 am 13. Karama
A bar is only as good as the people
tending it…and the two of you are the best! The drinks were great and
you guys have a way of making patrons feel appreciated and comfortable. The space suits you well. Great move!
Thanks for an enjoyable evening.
(See..I can be nice sometimes!!)
See you again soon:)
10 Jan 2008 at 2:44 pm 14. Lance J. Mayhew
I am SO tempted to embed a certain link in my comment, but I won’t. Suffice to say, google “bel ami” and you’ll be quite amused.
11 Jan 2008 at 12:17 am 15. Heath Hutto
Enjoy your new digs, then–I’ll stop by whenever I’m in town, and Bel Ami has the advantage of being more in the middle of my Rennies/Davis/Soriah run.
Also, I stopped by El Vaquero a week or so ago, and while I was sorry not to see you, was pleased to see the Dark and Stormy on the menu.
11 Jan 2008 at 12:55 pm 16. Angie
Hi Jeff,
A few words about traveling, cocktails, and your new locale.
After a long holiday break in a land devoid of fine cocktails, we returned to Portland on New Year’s Eve in search of a Sazerac and a fine Manhattan. We shook off the 737 cobwebs and headed straight to the Teardrop Lounge only to find them closed for a private event. We then dropped down to the Park Kitchen and found a similar sign in the window.
After two cocktail thwarts, we headed straight to Vaquero on Jan. 2 only to find…thwart number three.
No Jeff. No Scott. No “New Old-Fashioned.” The initial word at Vaquero was that you were on “hiatus.” I realized after a few minutes that this hiatus was permanent, but was relieved to find out that it was only a permanent break from 5th Street Market.
I look forward to seeing you both in the new location soon.
Congratulations.
Angie
11 Jan 2008 at 1:09 pm 17. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Heath: Great to hear you’re still around, I look forward to making you a cocktail in the near future.
Angie: Sorry to have provided the third in what sounds like a long series of twarts, but I assure you our new location is more than permanent.
See you both soon!
21 Jan 2008 at 5:24 pm 18. Chris
Hey Jeff and Scott – Congrats on the move! Melissa and I will have to stop in sometime soon. Your new digs don’t come with the Balvenie Portwood (or any other Balvenie than the Doublewood) does it??
See you soon.
Chris and Melissa
21 Jan 2008 at 6:08 pm 19. Siobhan
Congrats, boys! I’m a bit late to the game on reading up, but I just returned from a trip to Mexico. Don’t cry for me. ;)
24 Jan 2008 at 12:58 pm 20. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Chris, we have a whole bunch of fun scotches for you to try, but not the Portwood yet.
And Siobhan, I’ll most likely see you in Portland very soon!
24 Jan 2008 at 3:24 pm 21. Lisa and Lori
Hey guys! Lori and I will definitely be visiting you at Bel Ami, but you may have to share us with Tim at the Wine Bar (We still love you the most though!LOL).
27 Feb 2008 at 6:55 pm 22. Robert Dillon
Dear Jeff, Does your bar have live music? The reason I am asking is because we perform as a fingerstyle guitar & percussion duo as shown on my site at GuitarSolo.com … click on the links there for sound tracks (CDs), gig performances, weddings, etc.. We primarily perform my originals and some classical to modern day acoustic (two guitars: acoustic and classical), and would possibly like to perform at your bar. I’ve played at many venues in Oregon since I moved here in May 05. Check us out when you have time, and please get back with me. Thanks, Bob