Inspired by a visit to see Tony Conigliaro at the unnamed bar at 69 Colebrooke Row in London last fall, where Manhattans are aged in glass vessels to sublime and subtle effect, the barrel aged cocktails I’ve been serving at Clyde Common this year are a decidedly American curiosity.
The rub of aging cocktails in a glass bottle is that the whole premise is built upon subtlety, as we know that spirits aged in glass or steel do so at an unremarkable pace. Being from the United States, where – as everyone is aware – bigger equals better, I pondered the following question: what if you could prepare a large batch of a single, spirit-driven cocktail and age it in a used oak barrel?
A hundred some-odd dollars in liquor later, I was nervously pouring a gallon of pre-batched rye Manhattans into a small, used oak cask whose previous contents were a gallon Madeira wine. I plugged the barrel and sat back in anxious anticipation; if the experiment was a success I’d have a delicious cocktail to share at the bar – if it was a failure then I’d be pouring the restaurant’s money down the floor drain.
Over the next several weeks I popped open the barrel to test my little concoction until I stumbled upon the magic mark at five-to-six weeks. And there it was, lying beautifully on the the finish: a soft blend of oak, wine, caramel and char. That first batch sold out in a matter of days and I was left with a compelling need to push the process even further.
Now, three gallons of Negroni might not be practical for the home enthusiast, but the average bar or restaurant should be able to afford that sort of quantity quite easily. For those of you trying this at home, try searching the internet for one-gallon charred oak casks (stay away from the fancy lacquered kind meant for display in dens and 1980s wine bars) and be sure to let us know what you find in the comments section below.
We procured a small number of used whiskey casks from the Tuthilltown distillery and proceeded to fill them with a large batch of Negronis; and that’s when the magic of barrel aged cocktails grabbed our attention. After six weeks in the bourbon barrel, our Negroni emerged a rare beauty. The sweet vermouth so slightly oxidized, the color paler and rosier than the original, the mid-palate softly mingled with whiskey, the finish long and lingering with oak tannins. We knew we were on to something unique and immediately made plans to take the cask aging program to the next level.
Negronis are now prepared in five-gallon batches and poured into multiple bourbon barrels. Robert Hess’ ubiquitous Trident cocktail is currently resting inside single-malt barrels. The El Presidente (à laMatt Robold), Deshlers, Remember the Maines, they’re all receiving the oaked treatment in a little storage room in the basement of the restaurant that I refer to as my “office”.
Once the cocktail is aged long enough for my taste, I then drain the bottle, straining out any charred bits of wood, and bottle the contents for use by my bartenders. To order, the cocktail is then measured out and poured over ice in a mixing glass, stirred, strained into a cocktail glass, and then garnished with the appropriate garnish. It’s quick and simple, as all of the real work has already been done by the barrel.
Anyway, on to the recipes. As simple as it seems to do, I figured not everyone is going to want to do the math to get started on some of these recipes, so here are a few I’ve figured out:
Negroni
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) dry gin
128 oz sweet vermouth
128 oz Campari
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel. Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Manhattan
Makes Three Gallons
256 oz (approximately ten 750ml bottles) rye whiskey
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) sweet vermouth
7 oz Angostura bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a barrel that has previously stored sherry, Madeira, or port wine). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Trident
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) aquavit
128 oz dry sherry
128 oz Cynar
7 oz peach bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a used single malt barrel). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments section below.
My problem with homemade tonic water has always been a flavor profile that was too esoteric for the general audience. This recipe takes some of the positive qualities people have come to understand from commercial tonic water and updated them with fresh ingredients.
One question I'm often asked is "Do you have any drink-related book recommendations?" Well, funny you should ask, I've compiled a list of the ten books every professional bartender or home mixologist should own. I keep every one of these close at hand and have read most of them several times. I suggest you do the same.
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The world of booze can be mystifying to people that don't work in bars or around alcohol all the time. I hear a lot of assumptions about the industry I'm in that are - much like 90% of what you hear in bars - completely false. Here are a few you've probably heard yourself.
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There isn't much I can say about this video that hasn't been said already. If you've read anything I've written about cocktails, you'll understand why this video symbolizes everything wrong with the state of bartending in America today. Watch and learn, but be warned: this one isn't for the feint of heart.
About Me
My name is Jeff Morgenthaler and I'm the head bartender at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon.
I've been tending bar since 1996 and writing about it since 2004. Mixing drinks has become something of a passion for me in recent years, and I strive to elevate the experience of having a drink from something mundane to something more culinary.
The writing I do here is intended as a work in progress. My recipes are like my opinions: they are constantly being revised and refined as I work them through my mind and my fingers. Comments and participation are encouraged, so please don't feel the need to tread lightly here.
A couple of months ago, my friend Kevin from The Scotch Blog sent me a bottle of Pig’s Nose scotch in the mail.
As an aside, I highly recommend making friends with people who do things like, say, run the world’s biggest blog on scotch whiskey. Really.
Anyway, Pig’s Nose is a fun, easy-to-drink, everyday whiskey with some relaxed caramel notes, a little orange thrown in there, and – oddly enough – figs and raisins. Oranges, figs, and raisins? That sure does remind me of one of my favorite dessert wines, Pedro Ximenez… Sounds like it’s time for a cocktail!
2 oz scotch
¾ oz Pedro Ximenez
1 dash orange bitters
1 large strip orange zest
On the inside of a double rocks glass, rub the outside of the orange zest until the oils have coated the interior of the glass. Fill glass with ice.
In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, add scotch, Pedro Ximenez and orange bitters. Stir until well chilled. Strain contents into ice-filled glass, garnish with orange zest, and serve.
Comments
12 Responses to “Scottish Breakfast”
11 Jan 2008 at 8:21 am 1. Alan
Why Jeff, this drink sounds deliciously familiar! Glad you published it.
What a co-inky-dink, I make a similar drink using Mount Gay (or sometimes Pyrat ‘pistol’ if i’m feeling special), PX and orange. I call it a ‘Sweet Rum & Rais’ini’, great digestif.
I’ve tried Pig’s nose, isn’t there another dog themed dram from the same producer? – Dog’s Breath or something… ?!
Well, never let it be said that great minds do not indeed think alike, Tristan. I don’t know about you, but I’m planning on playing with PX more in the future.
Hi Jeff
Just back in from handing out our new back bar piece for Sheep Dip to my mates who have bars in Edinburgh.
They are great little mini barrels lined with Sheep skin fake- no animals hurt in making them!.May I send you one?
The strange thing is we are maturing some Sheep Dip in PX barrels in the maturation halls at Glengoyne and will call this new expression “Black Sheep” and bottle it when its dark enough.
This is the first time I have told anyone.
Thank you for the cocktail may I use it on my web site?
All the very best for 2008 Alex
Alex, you need to get some better US distribution of your whisky. I see that Binny’s (in Chicago) has Pig’s Nose but we need some (and some Sheep Dip) here in Oregon.
I know Jeff, the brands used to be in broader distribution.WE aquired the whiskies in 2005 and placed them with Admiral Distribution New Jersey in late 2006, they are great but just need time.If anyone need to find the brands check it with us at http://www.spencerfieldspirit.com or Admiral Tel: (973) 857-2100
Hope you don’t mind me using your site to push our distribution!!
Best regards Alex
In your case, Alex, I don’t mind a single bit. I know Sheep Dip used to be widely available in Oregon, but unfortunately it’s become rather hard to find.
Soooo, Jeffrey. In the event that one lives in Oregon and can’t buy Pig’s Nose, could you suggest a temporary substitute in your recipe? Another blend with enough similarity that it would work?
Oh, and thanks. I’d never heard of PX before and now I’ve got an expensive bottle of weird Spanish dessert wine. Why is it that you always cost me money?
I tried this recipe using the JW Red Label and I have to say, I think it’s a bad idea. In fact, this is just the sort of cocktail (like a Negroni made with Formula Antica) that persuades me that bartenders like you are a great danger to America. The recipe is simple, quick to prepare and entirely too tasty. Next thing I knew it was gone. And much too simple to make another one. Hell, the orange would just spoil, right?
I absolutely hate it when someone sends me a box full of sex toys in the mail. Sure, it might sound like fun to some of you (you know who you are), but receiving a big box of free sex is much more trouble than it’s worth. Believe me. So I get a [...]
11 Jan 2008 at 8:21 am 1. Alan
Why Jeff, this drink sounds deliciously familiar! Glad you published it.
12 Jan 2008 at 9:30 am 2. Tristan
What a co-inky-dink, I make a similar drink using Mount Gay (or sometimes Pyrat ‘pistol’ if i’m feeling special), PX and orange. I call it a ‘Sweet Rum & Rais’ini’, great digestif.
I’ve tried Pig’s nose, isn’t there another dog themed dram from the same producer? – Dog’s Breath or something… ?!
Nice blog by the way.
12 Jan 2008 at 9:38 am 3. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Well, never let it be said that great minds do not indeed think alike, Tristan. I don’t know about you, but I’m planning on playing with PX more in the future.
The fine folks over at The Spencerfield Spirit Company also have another product called Sheep Dip. Check them out, they’re great people and fun products.
12 Jan 2008 at 9:49 am 4. Alex Nicol
Hi Jeff
Just back in from handing out our new back bar piece for Sheep Dip to my mates who have bars in Edinburgh.
They are great little mini barrels lined with Sheep skin fake- no animals hurt in making them!.May I send you one?
The strange thing is we are maturing some Sheep Dip in PX barrels in the maturation halls at Glengoyne and will call this new expression “Black Sheep” and bottle it when its dark enough.
This is the first time I have told anyone.
Thank you for the cocktail may I use it on my web site?
All the very best for 2008 Alex
13 Jan 2008 at 11:21 am 5. Chris
http://www.thesharkbook.com/blog/labels/Jack%20Daniels.html
A woman, 110, credits her longevity to whiskey…
the above sounds delicious!
13 Jan 2008 at 3:07 pm 6. Jeff Frane
Alex, you need to get some better US distribution of your whisky. I see that Binny’s (in Chicago) has Pig’s Nose but we need some (and some Sheep Dip) here in Oregon.
14 Jan 2008 at 1:17 am 7. Alex Nicol
I know Jeff, the brands used to be in broader distribution.WE aquired the whiskies in 2005 and placed them with Admiral Distribution New Jersey in late 2006, they are great but just need time.If anyone need to find the brands check it with us at http://www.spencerfieldspirit.com or Admiral Tel: (973) 857-2100
Hope you don’t mind me using your site to push our distribution!!
Best regards Alex
15 Jan 2008 at 1:36 pm 8. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
In your case, Alex, I don’t mind a single bit. I know Sheep Dip used to be widely available in Oregon, but unfortunately it’s become rather hard to find.
Hopefully that will change soon!
16 Jan 2008 at 11:00 am 9. Jeff Frane
Soooo, Jeffrey. In the event that one lives in Oregon and can’t buy Pig’s Nose, could you suggest a temporary substitute in your recipe? Another blend with enough similarity that it would work?
Oh, and thanks. I’d never heard of PX before and now I’ve got an expensive bottle of weird Spanish dessert wine. Why is it that you always cost me money?
17 Jan 2008 at 9:22 am 10. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Sorry, Jeff. I’ve made this one at work with Dewar’s and Johnnie Walker Red Label and they both worked quite well.
As for your weird expensive bottle, I always keep one in the file cabinet next to the desk in my office in case of late-night emergencies…
21 Jan 2008 at 11:16 am 11. Jeff Frane
I tried this recipe using the JW Red Label and I have to say, I think it’s a bad idea. In fact, this is just the sort of cocktail (like a Negroni made with Formula Antica) that persuades me that bartenders like you are a great danger to America. The recipe is simple, quick to prepare and entirely too tasty. Next thing I knew it was gone. And much too simple to make another one. Hell, the orange would just spoil, right?
We need more complex and nasty cocktails.
21 Jan 2008 at 11:38 am 12. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Jeff
Sorry to hear you enjoyed the drink. I’ll try to make things harder for you next time, I promise.
Jeff