Inspired by a visit to see Tony Conigliaro at the unnamed bar at 69 Colebrooke Row in London last fall, where Manhattans are aged in glass vessels to sublime and subtle effect, the barrel aged cocktails I’ve been serving at Clyde Common this year are a decidedly American curiosity.
The rub of aging cocktails in a glass bottle is that the whole premise is built upon subtlety, as we know that spirits aged in glass or steel do so at an unremarkable pace. Being from the United States, where – as everyone is aware – bigger equals better, I pondered the following question: what if you could prepare a large batch of a single, spirit-driven cocktail and age it in a used oak barrel?
A hundred some-odd dollars in liquor later, I was nervously pouring a gallon of pre-batched rye Manhattans into a small, used oak cask whose previous contents were a gallon Madeira wine. I plugged the barrel and sat back in anxious anticipation; if the experiment was a success I’d have a delicious cocktail to share at the bar – if it was a failure then I’d be pouring the restaurant’s money down the floor drain.
Over the next several weeks I popped open the barrel to test my little concoction until I stumbled upon the magic mark at five-to-six weeks. And there it was, lying beautifully on the the finish: a soft blend of oak, wine, caramel and char. That first batch sold out in a matter of days and I was left with a compelling need to push the process even further.
Now, three gallons of Negroni might not be practical for the home enthusiast, but the average bar or restaurant should be able to afford that sort of quantity quite easily. For those of you trying this at home, try searching the internet for one-gallon charred oak casks (stay away from the fancy lacquered kind meant for display in dens and 1980s wine bars) and be sure to let us know what you find in the comments section below.
We procured a small number of used whiskey casks from the Tuthilltown distillery and proceeded to fill them with a large batch of Negronis; and that’s when the magic of barrel aged cocktails grabbed our attention. After six weeks in the bourbon barrel, our Negroni emerged a rare beauty. The sweet vermouth so slightly oxidized, the color paler and rosier than the original, the mid-palate softly mingled with whiskey, the finish long and lingering with oak tannins. We knew we were on to something unique and immediately made plans to take the cask aging program to the next level.
Negronis are now prepared in five-gallon batches and poured into multiple bourbon barrels. Robert Hess’ ubiquitous Trident cocktail is currently resting inside single-malt barrels. The El Presidente (à laMatt Robold), Deshlers, Remember the Maines, they’re all receiving the oaked treatment in a little storage room in the basement of the restaurant that I refer to as my “office”.
Once the cocktail is aged long enough for my taste, I then drain the bottle, straining out any charred bits of wood, and bottle the contents for use by my bartenders. To order, the cocktail is then measured out and poured over ice in a mixing glass, stirred, strained into a cocktail glass, and then garnished with the appropriate garnish. It’s quick and simple, as all of the real work has already been done by the barrel.
Anyway, on to the recipes. As simple as it seems to do, I figured not everyone is going to want to do the math to get started on some of these recipes, so here are a few I’ve figured out:
Negroni
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) dry gin
128 oz sweet vermouth
128 oz Campari
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel. Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Manhattan
Makes Three Gallons
256 oz (approximately ten 750ml bottles) rye whiskey
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) sweet vermouth
7 oz Angostura bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a barrel that has previously stored sherry, Madeira, or port wine). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Trident
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) aquavit
128 oz dry sherry
128 oz Cynar
7 oz peach bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a used single malt barrel). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments section below.
My problem with homemade tonic water has always been a flavor profile that was too esoteric for the general audience. This recipe takes some of the positive qualities people have come to understand from commercial tonic water and updated them with fresh ingredients.
One question I'm often asked is "Do you have any drink-related book recommendations?" Well, funny you should ask, I've compiled a list of the ten books every professional bartender or home mixologist should own. I keep every one of these close at hand and have read most of them several times. I suggest you do the same.
The problem with living in Oregon is the absence of little wooden shacks by the sea that sell cases of fresh ginger beer stacked on back porches. But with some readily-available ingredients, a recipe I've been revising for several years - and a few free minutes - I can easily transport myself to a little fishing boat on the ocean as I sip a Dark and Stormy made with fresh, house-made ginger beer.
It's always mojito season somewhere, so this advice is timely in your area about half the year. Wether you're making them or simply enjoying them, this advice will help you look like a pro in no time at all.
The flavors of the Richmond Gimlet are imbued with sunshine. Fresh mint mingling with the herbaceousness of gin and the tartness of lime have made this drink a Eugene classic for many years now.
You'll get a lot of snarky advice on this site about how to make a proper drink, but if you ever need to know what not to do, this is the video for you.
Not to be confused with the Spanish wine-and-fruit-based alcoholic beverage sangria, sangrita (meaning "little blood") is a traditional accompaniment to a tequila served completo; a non-alcoholic sipper that cleanses the palate between fiery doses of agave.
The world of booze can be mystifying to people that don't work in bars or around alcohol all the time. I hear a lot of assumptions about the industry I'm in that are - much like 90% of what you hear in bars - completely false. Here are a few you've probably heard yourself.
The debate rages on: Should we try to look cool and crack open the Boston shaker or be tidy professionals and use the Hawthorne strainer the way God intended? Be sure to leave your two cents in the comments section.
The traditional garnish for a Pisco Sour is a couple of drops of bitters in the foam, but I've never been particularly impressed with the way these few paltry drops of bitters sat in their little egg-white mattress and didn't play along with the rest of the drink. I envisioned a Pisco Sour with a uniformly-distributed bitters-scorched foam: slightly crisp as the fire burnt the sugars, and slightly warm as the foam insulated the rest of the frosty cocktail from the heat. A pisco creme brulée in a glass!
I get so many visitors looking for tips on how to write a bartending resume that I thought I should finally post a tutorial on how to write your own. Click the headline to read more.
I always love showing up to a party with a gallon jug of pre-mixed margaritas, so I've decided to share my recipe. This margarita recipe is the perfect blend of strong, sweet, and sour. But be warned: this recipe packs a serious punch.
There isn't much I can say about this video that hasn't been said already. If you've read anything I've written about cocktails, you'll understand why this video symbolizes everything wrong with the state of bartending in America today. Watch and learn, but be warned: this one isn't for the feint of heart.
About Me
My name is Jeff Morgenthaler and I'm the head bartender at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon.
I've been tending bar since 1996 and writing about it since 2004. Mixing drinks has become something of a passion for me in recent years, and I strive to elevate the experience of having a drink from something mundane to something more culinary.
The writing I do here is intended as a work in progress. My recipes are like my opinions: they are constantly being revised and refined as I work them through my mind and my fingers. Comments and participation are encouraged, so please don't feel the need to tread lightly here.
“Try this.” The wine rep looked determined. The wine salespeople in town usually know better than to waste their time with me, as I have little-to-no influence on the wine list. If it’s a distilled product you’re trying to push – and if it’s not vodka – then I’m the man behind the bar to talk to. Otherwise, you’ll probably want to save your breath.
“It’s an Italian aperitivo and I think you’ll really like it.” She was aware of my fondness for Negronis and such and was certain I’d take a liking to the bottle of Vergano Americano she was presenting to me. Reminiscent of the drink of the same name, this Americano was a special type of Italian aperitif referred to as a chinato.
Chinati are Italian fortified wines, similar to vermouth. Originally solely flavored with quinine, they took on a life of their own sometime around the late 19th century and came to be infused with various herbs and other flavors. There is most certainly orange peel and possibly caramelized sugar in this product.
Substitutions
Chinati are pretty rare finds in this country. If you can’t find Americano, try talking to the importer, or experiment with other fortified wines – Dubonnet rouge might make for an interesting choice, as would Lillet rouge.
I had to have this bottle, but living in a small town sometimes means that the more esoteric liquors on the shelf don’t move as quickly as I’d like them to. Since I was afraid to buy a case and have it sit behind the bar waiting for me to hand-sell each individual glass, I figured it was time for a cocktail.
After several rounds of base liquors and bitters selections, it was time to try it out on the unsuspecting. “It’s quite strong, but really pretty right below the surface,” was the first comment I received.
So, voila: The Beauty Beneath.
2 oz Appleton Estate V/X rum
1 oz Vergano ‘Americano’ chinato
½ oz Cointreau
1 dash Fee Brothers’ Old-Fashioned bitters
Stir ingredients with cracked ice until combined and cold. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Express the oils from an orange twist over the surface of the drink and drop the spent twist into the drink.
If you can find the Fee Brothers’ Whiskey Barrel Aged bitters, grab ‘em. Unfortunately, my only bottle was in service when I stopped by the bar to pick up supplies for the photoshoot.
I really like Chinati! Fantastic label on the Vergano, too. Someone was recently telling me they also make a very tasty white chinato which might make a pretty good Kina Lillet substitute.
Are they trying to widen their distribution? I picked up a bottle at LeNell’s about half a year ago, but have yet to see it in California. It would be great not to have to ship it from the East Coast after I run out.
I have to admit, after trying a couple of the Italian Americanos, Lillet and Dubonnet seem pretty pedestrian.
Chris – I would recommend using an aged pisco if you’re going to try this. And remember that if it doesn’t have an age statement on the label, the color of the liquid in the bottle is usually a pretty good indicator.
Erik – I don’t know if they’re trying to widen their distribution, I’ll ask the rep the next time I see her. And I agree, Lillet and Dubonnet do seem pretty pedestrian after a sampling of chinati.
26 Jun 2008 at 8:57 pm 4. RL
Brilliant colour. That barrel-aged bitters is nice too – I like the cinnamon-y aroma of it. Doubt there’s any chinati floating about New Zealand though.
RL – It’s worth a look online if you can get it shipped.
Marleigh – Think of it as vermouth with a kick. Don’t get rid of that Antica Formula any time soon.
27 Jun 2008 at 8:24 am 7. Matthew
I have a Cocchi Barolo Chinato that I have yet to open, as I assume this stuff last about as long as vermouth, so I’m waiting until my current bottle of Carpano runs out. But I’ve heard very good things about it, and I’ll definitely use this recipe as a jumping off point, so thanks!
Have you tried it in place of vermouth in any more conventional recipes, or perhaps in place of punt e mes?
Cocchi Barolo Chinato is a wonderful digestiv and an interesting mixer. Supposedly it is a fantastic accompaniment to dark chocolate.
However, it has very little to do with Sweet Vermouth.
First, it is made on a red wine base and Sweet Vermouth is made on a white wine base.
Second, the primary bittering agent is quinine, instead of the wormwood used in vermouth.
Third, it is a lot more bitter than any sweet vermouth, including Punt e Mes.
It is closer to a red wine based version of Campari. Well, not quite that bitter, but close.
Lovely stuff. Just don’t expect a Manhattan made with it to taste anything like a Manhattan made with Vermouth.
If you like negronis: 3/4 oz barolo chinato, 3/4 oz Cointreau, and 1 1/2 oz London Dry Gin is quite lovely.
27 Jun 2008 at 9:44 am 9. Matthew
erik,
thanks for the recipe, I will definitely be trying that.
I figured it wasn’t a literal match-up with vermouth, but it’s interesting that it compares more to campari, especially since I love campari.
I assume still that it will have approximately the same shelf life that vermouth has after opening though. Is this correct, or can I open without fear of decreasing quality?
By the way, the recipe above based on an old recipe called the “Cota Cocktail”, not really an original. The original recipe calls for a defunct aromatized wine product called “Hercules” and I was experimenting with substituting barolo chinato for the Hercules. Tasty, if not entirely accurate.
Yeah, Barolo Chinato probably has about the same life after opening as sweet vermouth. Though, it’s so tasty, I have a hard time keeping it around long enough for it to go off.
27 Jun 2008 at 11:55 am 11. Garretto
Wow, that really looks good!
Hey, Jeff, I’m new to the website and love it, trying to catch up on the archived recipes and articles.
I have a question regarding Maraschino liqueurs —- I’m trying to stock my home bar –I want to purchase a cherry liqueur to try an Aviation cocktail, however the ticket on the Luxardo and Maska are a bit steep. Is a less expensive Cherry liqueur such as Kijafa, going to really compromise the drink? My guess is yes, but I’ve spent a fortune in this stocking venture and looking for something to hole me over in the Cherry dept.
Thanks.
Since that is Mr. White commenting above, I guess that is good news for me finding Vergano products in California!
Excellent!
Though, where the heck do you find the Krogstad Aquavit down here?
30 Jun 2008 at 2:26 pm 17. Mike
Just got back from Germany, and China Martini is widely available. Too bad they can’t get some distribution in the US for that product since they already have such a big presence here with their sweet and dry vermouths.
As per usual, paying any attention at all to Morgenthaler ends up costing me money. Pastaworks, here in Portland, is the best bet for finding anything Italian in a bottle, and sure enough they had the Americano. Ouch. $40 is a lot, but they had a smaller bottle (500 ml?) of a different product from the same vintner and it was $50, so I guess I got a bargain.
I don’t have the right rum in the house, so I’ll try Erik’s take on the Negroni to start with.
Years ago, after being accused of being “beersnobs” a bunch of beersnobs came up with an ironic system of defining quality, absent all the effete nuances. We started with S and G (I’ll let y’all fill in the blanks) and then determined that a little more nuance was needed. So we added F, as in “that’s F G!”
The Americano is fascinating stuff, and Erik’s NotANegroni definitely is FG.
09 Jul 2008 at 12:29 pm 20. niels
wonderful cocktail! don’t have the americano, but have tried it twice with substitutes: schiavenza’s barolo chinato, which is simply immense, can’t recommend it enough – and in a lighter version that worked almost as well, with the st räphael rouge. used the bitter truth jerry thomas decanter bitter for the 2nd one to match the räphael better.
in mho the lillet rouge wont do in this drink – its far to ‘wine-ish’, too little ‘quinine-ish’. the dubonnet rouge wont do either, its too sweet, although frankly i dont know the american version which is supposed to be different from our european, i believe they produce in kentucky?
finally, from a newcommer, thnx for a great site!! always an inspiration here in copenhagen.
Just finished another one of these, made with the Methusalem and the whiskey-barrel aged bitters. Now I must find something to keep myself busy with so I won’t make another.
This is a beautiful and delicious cocktail, Jeffrey. And I think I’m finally starting to get rum.
I absolutely hate it when someone sends me a box full of sex toys in the mail. Sure, it might sound like fun to some of you (you know who you are), but receiving a big box of free sex is much more trouble than it’s worth. Believe me. So I get a [...]
Chinati are pretty rare finds in this country. If you can’t find Americano, try talking to the importer, or experiment with other fortified wines – Dubonnet rouge might make for an interesting choice, as would Lillet rouge.
26 Jun 2008 at 3:19 pm 1. Chris
This sounds pretty fantastic, I’m going to have to find some of this stuff.
Just wondering, how do you think a Pisco would do in place of/alongside the rum in this?
Cheers!
26 Jun 2008 at 3:27 pm 2. erik_flannestad
Yum!
I really like Chinati! Fantastic label on the Vergano, too. Someone was recently telling me they also make a very tasty white chinato which might make a pretty good Kina Lillet substitute.
Are they trying to widen their distribution? I picked up a bottle at LeNell’s about half a year ago, but have yet to see it in California. It would be great not to have to ship it from the East Coast after I run out.
I have to admit, after trying a couple of the Italian Americanos, Lillet and Dubonnet seem pretty pedestrian.
26 Jun 2008 at 3:39 pm 3. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Chris – I would recommend using an aged pisco if you’re going to try this. And remember that if it doesn’t have an age statement on the label, the color of the liquid in the bottle is usually a pretty good indicator.
Erik – I don’t know if they’re trying to widen their distribution, I’ll ask the rep the next time I see her. And I agree, Lillet and Dubonnet do seem pretty pedestrian after a sampling of chinati.
26 Jun 2008 at 8:57 pm 4. RL
Brilliant colour. That barrel-aged bitters is nice too – I like the cinnamon-y aroma of it. Doubt there’s any chinati floating about New Zealand though.
26 Jun 2008 at 9:34 pm 5. Marleigh
I still have very serious feelings for my bottle of Carpano Antica, but I’ll have to keep my eyes open for this one…
27 Jun 2008 at 1:34 am 6. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
RL – It’s worth a look online if you can get it shipped.
Marleigh – Think of it as vermouth with a kick. Don’t get rid of that Antica Formula any time soon.
27 Jun 2008 at 8:24 am 7. Matthew
I have a Cocchi Barolo Chinato that I have yet to open, as I assume this stuff last about as long as vermouth, so I’m waiting until my current bottle of Carpano runs out. But I’ve heard very good things about it, and I’ll definitely use this recipe as a jumping off point, so thanks!
Have you tried it in place of vermouth in any more conventional recipes, or perhaps in place of punt e mes?
27 Jun 2008 at 9:21 am 8. erik_flannestad
FYI, Matthew…
Cocchi Barolo Chinato is a wonderful digestiv and an interesting mixer. Supposedly it is a fantastic accompaniment to dark chocolate.
However, it has very little to do with Sweet Vermouth.
First, it is made on a red wine base and Sweet Vermouth is made on a white wine base.
Second, the primary bittering agent is quinine, instead of the wormwood used in vermouth.
Third, it is a lot more bitter than any sweet vermouth, including Punt e Mes.
It is closer to a red wine based version of Campari. Well, not quite that bitter, but close.
Lovely stuff. Just don’t expect a Manhattan made with it to taste anything like a Manhattan made with Vermouth.
If you like negronis: 3/4 oz barolo chinato, 3/4 oz Cointreau, and 1 1/2 oz London Dry Gin is quite lovely.
27 Jun 2008 at 9:44 am 9. Matthew
erik,
thanks for the recipe, I will definitely be trying that.
I figured it wasn’t a literal match-up with vermouth, but it’s interesting that it compares more to campari, especially since I love campari.
I assume still that it will have approximately the same shelf life that vermouth has after opening though. Is this correct, or can I open without fear of decreasing quality?
27 Jun 2008 at 9:51 am 10. erik_flannestad
By the way, the recipe above based on an old recipe called the “Cota Cocktail”, not really an original. The original recipe calls for a defunct aromatized wine product called “Hercules” and I was experimenting with substituting barolo chinato for the Hercules. Tasty, if not entirely accurate.
Yeah, Barolo Chinato probably has about the same life after opening as sweet vermouth. Though, it’s so tasty, I have a hard time keeping it around long enough for it to go off.
27 Jun 2008 at 11:55 am 11. Garretto
Wow, that really looks good!
Hey, Jeff, I’m new to the website and love it, trying to catch up on the archived recipes and articles.
I have a question regarding Maraschino liqueurs —- I’m trying to stock my home bar –I want to purchase a cherry liqueur to try an Aviation cocktail, however the ticket on the Luxardo and Maska are a bit steep. Is a less expensive Cherry liqueur such as Kijafa, going to really compromise the drink? My guess is yes, but I’ve spent a fortune in this stocking venture and looking for something to hole me over in the Cherry dept.
Thanks.
27 Jun 2008 at 12:21 pm 12. NW
DAMMIT! I thought I would be the first to get going with this bottle. Well, here is the Digestif I am rolling out this week.
The Foil:
1 oz. Krogstad Aquivit
1 oz. Vergano Americano Chinato
Stir gently over ice and strain.
27 Jun 2008 at 1:32 pm 13. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
All – I’ve found that the Americano doesn’t oxidize too quickly if corked and stored in a refrigerator.
Garretto – See this post for more info about maraschino. Cherry liqueurs won’t taste the same as liqueur made from Maraska cherries.
Neyah – Great recipe, I’m going to try this when I get to work tonight. And I am glad I could beat you to the punch at least once!
27 Jun 2008 at 6:29 pm 14. erik_flannestad
Uh, dudes, you really should read my blog and maybe eGullet…
NYC in February
I’ve been pretty pleased with the Vergano Americano in recipes which call for Hercules.
28 Jun 2008 at 12:06 pm 15. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Erik – You have a blog??
Just kidding.
28 Jun 2008 at 1:08 pm 16. erik_ellestad
Since that is Mr. White commenting above, I guess that is good news for me finding Vergano products in California!
Excellent!
Though, where the heck do you find the Krogstad Aquavit down here?
30 Jun 2008 at 2:26 pm 17. Mike
Just got back from Germany, and China Martini is widely available. Too bad they can’t get some distribution in the US for that product since they already have such a big presence here with their sweet and dry vermouths.
-Mike
07 Jul 2008 at 3:03 pm 18. Jeff Frane
As per usual, paying any attention at all to Morgenthaler ends up costing me money. Pastaworks, here in Portland, is the best bet for finding anything Italian in a bottle, and sure enough they had the Americano. Ouch. $40 is a lot, but they had a smaller bottle (500 ml?) of a different product from the same vintner and it was $50, so I guess I got a bargain.
I don’t have the right rum in the house, so I’ll try Erik’s take on the Negroni to start with.
07 Jul 2008 at 6:20 pm 19. Jeff Frane
Years ago, after being accused of being “beersnobs” a bunch of beersnobs came up with an ironic system of defining quality, absent all the effete nuances. We started with S and G (I’ll let y’all fill in the blanks) and then determined that a little more nuance was needed. So we added F, as in “that’s F G!”
The Americano is fascinating stuff, and Erik’s NotANegroni definitely is FG.
09 Jul 2008 at 12:29 pm 20. niels
wonderful cocktail! don’t have the americano, but have tried it twice with substitutes: schiavenza’s barolo chinato, which is simply immense, can’t recommend it enough – and in a lighter version that worked almost as well, with the st räphael rouge. used the bitter truth jerry thomas decanter bitter for the 2nd one to match the räphael better.
in mho the lillet rouge wont do in this drink – its far to ‘wine-ish’, too little ‘quinine-ish’. the dubonnet rouge wont do either, its too sweet, although frankly i dont know the american version which is supposed to be different from our european, i believe they produce in kentucky?
finally, from a newcommer, thnx for a great site!! always an inspiration here in copenhagen.
10 Aug 2008 at 5:31 pm 21. Jeff Frane
Just finished another one of these, made with the Methusalem and the whiskey-barrel aged bitters. Now I must find something to keep myself busy with so I won’t make another.
This is a beautiful and delicious cocktail, Jeffrey. And I think I’m finally starting to get rum.
10 Aug 2008 at 6:00 pm 22. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Thanks, Jeff. I’m glad you’re enjoying the drink.
11 Aug 2008 at 11:20 am 23. erik_flannestad
Psst…
Use the Vergano Americano in cocktails which call for Dubonnet Rouge.
Rocks!
28 Jun 2009 at 6:17 pm 24. Joe M
Anyone know if I can find Barolo Chinato in SF CA?
28 Jun 2009 at 7:02 pm 25. erik_ellestad
Joe, That I know of, both K&L and Plump Jack often carry the Cocchi Barolo Chinato.