Latest Drink Recipe
In my opinion, one of the greatest triumphs of the cocktail renaissance is the rediscovery of the classic Old Fashioned. I’ve often spoken of how at some point after the repeal of Prohibition, the Old Fashioned became lost and possibly confused with a long-forgotten drink called a Smash (basically a tarted-up Mint Julep covered in fruit), a mere husk of its former, glorious self.
For decades, bartenders just like me served a limp, weak concoction consisting of a half-muddled sugar cube, a mashed-up neon red cherry and orange, a splash of whiskey, and some soda water drowning the results.
With a little luck, and a lot of hard work, that’s all changed with the renewed interest in classic cocktails. Now at any given night at my bar you can find literally a dozen people sipping on two ounces bourbon touched with a teaspoon of sugar and two dashes of bitters, garnished with a simple orange twist over a couple big ice cubes.
But don’t try to pull that bullshit with the good people of the Great State of Wisconsin, where the Brandy Old Fashioned rules supreme. It’s not the same drink as above, it just shares a name. And if you make it right, really right, it’s a damn delicious cocktail and worthy of examination.
Being located in a hotel, we’re used to serving folks from all over the world. And the first time I witnessed a guest from Wisconsin stare blankly as one of my bartenders handed over two ounces of Cognac touched with a teaspoon of sugar and two dashes of bitters and garnished with a simple orange twist over a couple big ice cubes, I knew some further training was in order.
So in the name of making cocktails – all cocktails – with as much of our hearts as we can offer, I present to you what I believe to be the perfect Brandy Old Fashioned… Wisconsin-style.
I start with an old fashioned glass I’ve chilled in the freezer. Call it a tumbler, call it a double rocks glass, or call it a bucket, it’s a glass you’re familiar with. To that I add two dashes of Angostura bitters and a teaspoon of sugar. If I’m in a hurry I use a 2:1 simple syrup, but if I’m going to spend some time, I use a sugar cube. The sugar cube is preferable here because it’s going to add some friction to the muddling we’re about to do. Brace yourselves, cocktail “nerds”.
Next I’ll take a thick-cut orange wedge, and a cherry. The usual suspect here is a grocery store maraschino cherry, but I always choose a brandied Amarena cherry. Remember, you’re going to get out what you put in, so a quality cherry is going to make the drink that much better.
I muddle the sugar, bitters, orange wedge and cherry into a thick paste, careful not to touch the orange peel too much as it’ll bring unwanted bitterness to the party – just work around the peel and pulverize that orange meat.
Your standard Brandy Old Fashioned brandy of choice is Korbel: cheap California brandy. Considering the hundreds of thousands of cases they ship to Wisconsin every year, it might be considered sacrosanct to use anything else. But if you want to do this right, really right, then do yourself a favor and use some good Cognac. I have my preferred brandy, you have yours.
At this point your typical Wisconsinite barkeep is going to add ice and finish the drink in one of two main ways: sweet or sour. Those who take it sweet will ask for a splash of Sprite or 7-Up, those who take it sour get a dose of Collins Mix or Squirt. To me, it’s just a way of watering down the drink, so I leave out the soda and take a more… cocktail-y method.
Crushed ice is a must for me whenever I whip up a Brandy Old Fashioned. I always skip the soda and let the tiny shards of ice do the work, taming those strong, sweet flavors and turning this into a drink you can sip slowly.
As for a garnish, most will throw a “flag” of an orange wedge and a cherry spiked through with a wooden toothpick, but my take here is that those things are already in the drink, so I skip ‘em. Besides, how pretty does that look without the goofy fruit salad perched over the top?
You know, it’s something to enjoy sipping on while you cook up some bratwurst and onions in a boiling kettle of beer before everyone comes over to watch the Packers game. Drink accordingly.
Brandy Old Fashioned
1 sugar cube or 1 tsp 2:1 simple syrup
2 dashes Angostura bitters
1 orange wedge
1 cherry, preferably Amarena or Maraska
2 oz brandy or Cognac
In a chilled old fashioned glass, muddle the sugar, bitters, orange wedge and cherry into a thick paste, careful not to work the orange peel. Add brandy or Cognac, stir, and fill glass with crushed ice and serve.
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About Me
My name is Jeff Morgenthaler and I'm the bar manager at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon.
I've been tending bar since 1996 and writing about it since 2004. I started tending bar while getting my degree in Interior Architecture, and slowly I came to the conclusion that bartending was what I really loved, and that I might as well drop everything and focus on being a professional bartender. Over the years I have strived, both behind the bar and with this website, to elevate the experience of having a drink from something mundane to something more culinary.
The writing I do here is intended as a work in progress. My recipes are like my opinions: they are constantly being revised and refined as I work them through my mind and my fingers. Comments and participation are encouraged, so please don't feel the need to tread lightly here.
13 Apr 2009 at 1:06 PM 1. Kevin Erskine
I hate the way she pronounces “Mint Julep” oh wait…wrong video.
THIS guy knows what he is talking about.
I use a sugar cube…should I go to simple syrup??
And yes, I only make them with Rye now…
13 Apr 2009 at 1:10 PM 2. Ando
I like these videos…I don’t feel stupider afterwards.
13 Apr 2009 at 1:14 PM 3. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Thanks guys. Kevin, many sources will tell you to muddle a sugar cube with water, which is – in essence – making simple syrup on-the-fly. I prefer to use a teaspoon to a quarter-ounce of a nice, rich 2:1 simple syrup instead. There’s less water involved than a 1:1 simple, and you’re guaranteed not to have any residual graininess from the sugar cube. Try it sometime.
13 Apr 2009 at 4:13 PM 4. Jeff Frane
This sums up exactly what I love about your approach to cocktails: simple and delicious. All the recipes that call for mashing up slices of orange and maraschino cherries along with a cube of sugar . . . fail. This looks perfect.
13 Apr 2009 at 4:45 PM 5. Garretto
Jeff,
The slight muddle of the orange peel —nice. I find that the best method also. It’s a nice place between muddling a cherry and orange slice, and just an orange twist. Perfect.
I’ll have to try the 2:1 ratio on the syrup, I’ve always gone 1:1.
Nice presentation.
G.
13 Apr 2009 at 4:46 PM 6. Rich
Hey,
Not to change the topic, but who won the Dirty Sue Cocktail Contest? I’ve searched, but can’t find the answer.
BTW, the 2:1 syrup is much more tasty.
Gracias…
13 Apr 2009 at 7:01 PM 7. Chris
Well, Jeffrey, I tried your OF technique and David Wondrich’s technique from his “Esquire Drinks” opus back to back, and I’m sorry to say, while I love Wondrich, your style produces a far better cocktail than his. My hat is off to you, sir.
13 Apr 2009 at 8:37 PM 8. Jenny Adams
You steal pics off my site and then never mention anything beyond skiing and enjoying gorgeous Vail? …. what about hot tub – pool time? What about CCXXII? What about running from Yetis and all the delish GM and beer and scrambled eggs that tasted like a first sunset?
14 Apr 2009 at 12:31 AM 9. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Frane and Garretto – Thank you. Very much.
Rich – I knew there was something I was forgetting! Stay tuned, I’ll update this post when I know more.
Chris – Maybe David and I should have an Old Fashioned smack-down in July?
Jenny – I’m appalled at my own behavior. Ladies and gentleman, photography by the lovely Jennifer Adams. Take a bow, Jenny.
14 Apr 2009 at 2:06 AM 10. Kevin Erskine
Jeff, I actually put the bitters directly on the cube (no water added) and muddle.
Will try your approach!
14 Apr 2009 at 5:34 PM 11. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Kevin – I can’t see using two dashes of a high-proof bitters like Angostura dissolving the sugar enough without an insane amount of muddling or the addition of water. Is this really working for you?
15 Apr 2009 at 3:04 PM 12. Dan
Nice, I’ll have to give the orange peel a try.
Lately I’ve been using 2 dashes Angostura and 1 dash orange bitters to put a little citrus on the nose and tongue.
I tend to stir mine quite a bit before drinking. I think the extra water mellows some of stronger flavors and lets everything meld together a bit.
16 Apr 2009 at 10:30 AM 13. Jackie Patterson
Jeff-
Umm, way to use your hands with the ice. I always knew you were dirty…
love always,
JP
16 Apr 2009 at 12:07 PM 14. Jac
Brilliant. Again.
Why aren’t there bartenders like this where I live? Whyyyyyyy?!?
16 Apr 2009 at 1:20 PM 15. Kevin Erskine
Actually was muddling the bitters soaked cube into the rye and orange…
I think the cube looks more retro…but i bet your strong simple syrup tastes better…
16 Apr 2009 at 3:41 PM 16. Andrew
Enjoyed the video! I tried the old fashioned recipe and like it much better than my old method (1t syrup, 2d angostura, 1d orange bitters). This version is much better (tastes more like a cocktail and less like fancying up straight whiskey).
16 Apr 2009 at 8:26 PM 17. Cody Predum
Very nice video, Jeff.
This is exactly how I make my Old Fashioned, except I use 1/2 oz of 1:1 simple syrup instead of 1/4 of 2:1 syrup. I’ll throw an orange slice and lemon peel on it when I’m done if I’m feeling fancy, but I never fuck with fake cherries.
This is also essentially the same as Robert Hess’ Old Fashioned video, except you actually measure your simple syrup. I always thought it was funny that Robert Hess, who is usually more meticulous about measurements than just about anyone, simply tells us to eyeball a dollop of simple syrup in the bottom of the glass. I’m all about being able to make a drink the same every time, and that method just doesn’t seem like it could ever be consistent, especially if you’re using a new glass.
Cheers,
-Cody
17 Apr 2009 at 8:48 AM 18. Garretto
CP:
Jeff’s presentation also resembles the esteemed, Chris McMillian’s video for NOLA in that Chris does the light muddle of orange peel, however Chris does the sugar cube with a massive muddler that seems designed for the old fashioned glass. He really muscles it.
Try youtube “NOLA Cocktails”, or if this link works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEr7ym4-r5I
Jeff’s Old Fashioned I think combines the best of both Hess’ & McMillian’s styles.
17 Apr 2009 at 11:06 AM 19. sylvan
Congtratulations on getting your picture in Playboy!
http://www.playboy.com/nightlife/a-list/
17 Apr 2009 at 7:17 PM 20. Cody Predum
Garretto:
I used to follow McMillian’s presentation exactly, but I’ve since realized how unnecessarily time consuming it is to muddle a sugar cube. Nevertheless, the fact that McMillian uses simple syrup for drinks other than his Old Fashioned and Sazerac (e.g. his Whiskey Sour) shows that he muddles simply to be as traditional as possible, and I respect that. Of course, regardless of whether or not you’re muddling a sugar cube, gently muddling a piece of orange peel is always a must.
But as for simple syrup, can anyone think of a reason to use a 2:1 instead of 1:1? I prefer the 1:1 because I have a 1/2 oz jigger, but to measure 1/4 oz I have to resort to a teaspoon and a half-teaspoon, which is really annoying, especially if the only difference is water in a drink to which I’m going to be adding ice.
-Cody
18 Apr 2009 at 1:26 PM 21. Sierra Z.
Can you do a video on how to iron a shirt? Thanks!
-Sierra
20 Apr 2009 at 4:15 PM 22. sku
McMillian uses a cube because he wants to be able to control the amount of water in the drink (and because he is a badass muddler), but I assume the use of a 2:1 syrup addresses that issue in that it is minimizing the water in the solution.
23 Apr 2009 at 9:46 AM 23. Tom G.
This is probably a silly question but I had never seen it until I saw your videos…
Why do you pour from the neck of the bottle between your middle and ring finger? Is it to keep finger prints off the bottles? Less arm motion? Cleaner?
23 Apr 2009 at 8:03 PM 24. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Tom G – I don’t know, really, that’s just how I hold the bottle. I guess I like to pour slowly into the jigger for accuracy, but hold the bottle however you like.
24 Apr 2009 at 1:25 PM 25. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Oops, forgot to post those winners:
First Place
The Nutsack, by Matthew Eggleston, The Hungry Cat, Los Angeles
2 oz Fino Sherry/
.75 oz Dolin sweet vermouth/
.5 oz. Nocina della christina ( or any good walnut liqueur)/
.25 oz. Dirty Sue olive juice/
dash Angostura dash Regan’s Orange-
Stir until well chilled –
serve in cocktail coupe with orange twist
Second Place
Dirty Daisy, by Blair Frodelius, GoodSpiritsNews.spaces.live.com
0.75 oz Sauza Anejo Conmemorativo
0.50 oz Patron Citronge
0.25 oz Dirty Sue
1 tsp Modena Balsamic Vinegar
1/8 lime
Pour all but lime in mixing glass with ice and stir. Strain into chilled cocktail glass and add squeeze of lime.
01 May 2009 at 4:15 PM 26. Blair Frodelius
Jeffrey,
How many entries did you have to judge in the Dirty Sue competition? Also curious to know what you thought of the Salmiak Cocktail (Black Sambuca & Dirty Sue).
Cheers!
Blair
23 Aug 2009 at 11:41 PM 27. Daniel
I just tried this cocktail with Macallan, 12 yr. old(single malt scotch), but with only 1/8th an ounce of rich syrup. I loved the results; the sherry notes go so well with the orange.
Cocktail win. Thanks Jeffrey!