Inspired by a visit to see Tony Conigliaro at the unnamed bar at 69 Colebrooke Row in London last fall, where Manhattans are aged in glass vessels to sublime and subtle effect, the barrel aged cocktails I’ve been serving at Clyde Common this year are a decidedly American curiosity.
The rub of aging cocktails in a glass bottle is that the whole premise is built upon subtlety, as we know that spirits aged in glass or steel do so at an unremarkable pace. Being from the United States, where – as everyone is aware – bigger equals better, I pondered the following question: what if you could prepare a large batch of a single, spirit-driven cocktail and age it in a used oak barrel?
A hundred some-odd dollars in liquor later, I was nervously pouring a gallon of pre-batched rye Manhattans into a small, used oak cask whose previous contents were a gallon Madeira wine. I plugged the barrel and sat back in anxious anticipation; if the experiment was a success I’d have a delicious cocktail to share at the bar – if it was a failure then I’d be pouring the restaurant’s money down the floor drain.
Over the next several weeks I popped open the barrel to test my little concoction until I stumbled upon the magic mark at five-to-six weeks. And there it was, lying beautifully on the the finish: a soft blend of oak, wine, caramel and char. That first batch sold out in a matter of days and I was left with a compelling need to push the process even further.
Now, three gallons of Negroni might not be practical for the home enthusiast, but the average bar or restaurant should be able to afford that sort of quantity quite easily. For those of you trying this at home, try searching the internet for one-gallon charred oak casks (stay away from the fancy lacquered kind meant for display in dens and 1980s wine bars) and be sure to let us know what you find in the comments section below.
We procured a small number of used whiskey casks from the Tuthilltown distillery and proceeded to fill them with a large batch of Negronis; and that’s when the magic of barrel aged cocktails grabbed our attention. After six weeks in the bourbon barrel, our Negroni emerged a rare beauty. The sweet vermouth so slightly oxidized, the color paler and rosier than the original, the mid-palate softly mingled with whiskey, the finish long and lingering with oak tannins. We knew we were on to something unique and immediately made plans to take the cask aging program to the next level.
Negronis are now prepared in five-gallon batches and poured into multiple bourbon barrels. Robert Hess’ ubiquitous Trident cocktail is currently resting inside single-malt barrels. The El Presidente (à laMatt Robold), Deshlers, Remember the Maines, they’re all receiving the oaked treatment in a little storage room in the basement of the restaurant that I refer to as my “office”.
Once the cocktail is aged long enough for my taste, I then drain the bottle, straining out any charred bits of wood, and bottle the contents for use by my bartenders. To order, the cocktail is then measured out and poured over ice in a mixing glass, stirred, strained into a cocktail glass, and then garnished with the appropriate garnish. It’s quick and simple, as all of the real work has already been done by the barrel.
Anyway, on to the recipes. As simple as it seems to do, I figured not everyone is going to want to do the math to get started on some of these recipes, so here are a few I’ve figured out:
Negroni
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) dry gin
128 oz sweet vermouth
128 oz Campari
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel. Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Manhattan
Makes Three Gallons
256 oz (approximately ten 750ml bottles) rye whiskey
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) sweet vermouth
7 oz Angostura bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a barrel that has previously stored sherry, Madeira, or port wine). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Trident
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) aquavit
128 oz dry sherry
128 oz Cynar
7 oz peach bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a used single malt barrel). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments section below.
My problem with homemade tonic water has always been a flavor profile that was too esoteric for the general audience. This recipe takes some of the positive qualities people have come to understand from commercial tonic water and updated them with fresh ingredients.
One question I'm often asked is "Do you have any drink-related book recommendations?" Well, funny you should ask, I've compiled a list of the ten books every professional bartender or home mixologist should own. I keep every one of these close at hand and have read most of them several times. I suggest you do the same.
The problem with living in Oregon is the absence of little wooden shacks by the sea that sell cases of fresh ginger beer stacked on back porches. But with some readily-available ingredients, a recipe I've been revising for several years - and a few free minutes - I can easily transport myself to a little fishing boat on the ocean as I sip a Dark and Stormy made with fresh, house-made ginger beer.
It's always mojito season somewhere, so this advice is timely in your area about half the year. Wether you're making them or simply enjoying them, this advice will help you look like a pro in no time at all.
The flavors of the Richmond Gimlet are imbued with sunshine. Fresh mint mingling with the herbaceousness of gin and the tartness of lime have made this drink a Eugene classic for many years now.
You'll get a lot of snarky advice on this site about how to make a proper drink, but if you ever need to know what not to do, this is the video for you.
Not to be confused with the Spanish wine-and-fruit-based alcoholic beverage sangria, sangrita (meaning "little blood") is a traditional accompaniment to a tequila served completo; a non-alcoholic sipper that cleanses the palate between fiery doses of agave.
The world of booze can be mystifying to people that don't work in bars or around alcohol all the time. I hear a lot of assumptions about the industry I'm in that are - much like 90% of what you hear in bars - completely false. Here are a few you've probably heard yourself.
The debate rages on: Should we try to look cool and crack open the Boston shaker or be tidy professionals and use the Hawthorne strainer the way God intended? Be sure to leave your two cents in the comments section.
The traditional garnish for a Pisco Sour is a couple of drops of bitters in the foam, but I've never been particularly impressed with the way these few paltry drops of bitters sat in their little egg-white mattress and didn't play along with the rest of the drink. I envisioned a Pisco Sour with a uniformly-distributed bitters-scorched foam: slightly crisp as the fire burnt the sugars, and slightly warm as the foam insulated the rest of the frosty cocktail from the heat. A pisco creme brulée in a glass!
I get so many visitors looking for tips on how to write a bartending resume that I thought I should finally post a tutorial on how to write your own. Click the headline to read more.
I always love showing up to a party with a gallon jug of pre-mixed margaritas, so I've decided to share my recipe. This margarita recipe is the perfect blend of strong, sweet, and sour. But be warned: this recipe packs a serious punch.
There isn't much I can say about this video that hasn't been said already. If you've read anything I've written about cocktails, you'll understand why this video symbolizes everything wrong with the state of bartending in America today. Watch and learn, but be warned: this one isn't for the feint of heart.
About Me
My name is Jeff Morgenthaler and I'm the head bartender at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon.
I've been tending bar since 1996 and writing about it since 2004. Mixing drinks has become something of a passion for me in recent years, and I strive to elevate the experience of having a drink from something mundane to something more culinary.
The writing I do here is intended as a work in progress. My recipes are like my opinions: they are constantly being revised and refined as I work them through my mind and my fingers. Comments and participation are encouraged, so please don't feel the need to tread lightly here.
It’s been busy times here in Portland, but I thought I’d take a break from all the hot bar-managin’ action to post a aggregated update of what’s been happening in my world lately – loose ends, mostly:
Last week I attended the Grand Marnier/Navan Mixology Summit in Vail Colorado. One hundred bartenders from around the country were chosen from over 800 applicants to prepare original cocktails, attend seminars, and to learn from each other and the AKA Wine Geek team. I was there with my good friends from around the country, enjoying lavish meals, incredible Grand Marnier, Cuvées du Centenaire and Cent Cinquantenaire and Navan cocktails, and – of course – skiing and enjoying gorgeous Vail.
If you happen to be a Twitter user, please feel free to follow along with me for a more detailed account of what’s happening day to day. I always try to provide a running commentary when I’m on these booze excursions and Twitter can be a great way to peek in on the action.
I’ve got another video up at Imbibe Magazine’s website, which is also viewable on YouTube and subscribeable as a podcast via the iTunes Store. In this second video, I show you how to make an Old Fashioned the way I like to drink them – as a simple drink with a surprising amount of flavor, considering the very limited ingredient list.
My last video for Imbibe turned out to be much less of a disaster than everyone anticipated, so with any luck Episode Two will be remembered as my Attack of the Clones.
I believe that is all. Please go back to what you were doing and stay tuned for another drink recipe sometime this week.
Comments
27 Responses to “Spring Cleaning”
13 Apr 2009 at 1:06 pm 1. Kevin Erskine
I hate the way she pronounces “Mint Julep” oh wait…wrong video.
THIS guy knows what he is talking about.
I use a sugar cube…should I go to simple syrup??
And yes, I only make them with Rye now…
13 Apr 2009 at 1:10 pm 2. Ando
I like these videos…I don’t feel stupider afterwards.
Thanks guys. Kevin, many sources will tell you to muddle a sugar cube with water, which is – in essence – making simple syrup on-the-fly. I prefer to use a teaspoon to a quarter-ounce of a nice, rich 2:1 simple syrup instead. There’s less water involved than a 1:1 simple, and you’re guaranteed not to have any residual graininess from the sugar cube. Try it sometime.
This sums up exactly what I love about your approach to cocktails: simple and delicious. All the recipes that call for mashing up slices of orange and maraschino cherries along with a cube of sugar . . . fail. This looks perfect.
13 Apr 2009 at 4:45 pm 5. Garretto
Jeff,
The slight muddle of the orange peel —nice. I find that the best method also. It’s a nice place between muddling a cherry and orange slice, and just an orange twist. Perfect.
I’ll have to try the 2:1 ratio on the syrup, I’ve always gone 1:1.
Nice presentation.
G.
13 Apr 2009 at 4:46 pm 6. Rich
Hey,
Not to change the topic, but who won the Dirty Sue Cocktail Contest? I’ve searched, but can’t find the answer.
Well, Jeffrey, I tried your OF technique and David Wondrich’s technique from his “Esquire Drinks” opus back to back, and I’m sorry to say, while I love Wondrich, your style produces a far better cocktail than his. My hat is off to you, sir.
You steal pics off my site and then never mention anything beyond skiing and enjoying gorgeous Vail? …. what about hot tub – pool time? What about CCXXII? What about running from Yetis and all the delish GM and beer and scrambled eggs that tasted like a first sunset?
Kevin – I can’t see using two dashes of a high-proof bitters like Angostura dissolving the sugar enough without an insane amount of muddling or the addition of water. Is this really working for you?
15 Apr 2009 at 3:04 pm 12. Dan
Nice, I’ll have to give the orange peel a try.
Lately I’ve been using 2 dashes Angostura and 1 dash orange bitters to put a little citrus on the nose and tongue.
I tend to stir mine quite a bit before drinking. I think the extra water mellows some of stronger flavors and lets everything meld together a bit.
16 Apr 2009 at 10:30 am 13. Jackie Patterson
Jeff-
Umm, way to use your hands with the ice. I always knew you were dirty…
Why aren’t there bartenders like this where I live? Whyyyyyyy?!?
16 Apr 2009 at 1:20 pm 15. Kevin Erskine
Actually was muddling the bitters soaked cube into the rye and orange…
I think the cube looks more retro…but i bet your strong simple syrup tastes better…
16 Apr 2009 at 3:41 pm 16. Andrew
Enjoyed the video! I tried the old fashioned recipe and like it much better than my old method (1t syrup, 2d angostura, 1d orange bitters). This version is much better (tastes more like a cocktail and less like fancying up straight whiskey).
16 Apr 2009 at 8:26 pm 17. Cody Predum
Very nice video, Jeff.
This is exactly how I make my Old Fashioned, except I use 1/2 oz of 1:1 simple syrup instead of 1/4 of 2:1 syrup. I’ll throw an orange slice and lemon peel on it when I’m done if I’m feeling fancy, but I never fuck with fake cherries.
This is also essentially the same as Robert Hess’ Old Fashioned video, except you actually measure your simple syrup. I always thought it was funny that Robert Hess, who is usually more meticulous about measurements than just about anyone, simply tells us to eyeball a dollop of simple syrup in the bottom of the glass. I’m all about being able to make a drink the same every time, and that method just doesn’t seem like it could ever be consistent, especially if you’re using a new glass.
Cheers,
-Cody
17 Apr 2009 at 8:48 am 18. Garretto
CP:
Jeff’s presentation also resembles the esteemed, Chris McMillian’s video for NOLA in that Chris does the light muddle of orange peel, however Chris does the sugar cube with a massive muddler that seems designed for the old fashioned glass. He really muscles it.
Try youtube “NOLA Cocktails”, or if this link works: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEr7ym4-r5I
Jeff’s Old Fashioned I think combines the best of both Hess’ & McMillian’s styles.
Garretto:
I used to follow McMillian’s presentation exactly, but I’ve since realized how unnecessarily time consuming it is to muddle a sugar cube. Nevertheless, the fact that McMillian uses simple syrup for drinks other than his Old Fashioned and Sazerac (e.g. his Whiskey Sour) shows that he muddles simply to be as traditional as possible, and I respect that. Of course, regardless of whether or not you’re muddling a sugar cube, gently muddling a piece of orange peel is always a must.
But as for simple syrup, can anyone think of a reason to use a 2:1 instead of 1:1? I prefer the 1:1 because I have a 1/2 oz jigger, but to measure 1/4 oz I have to resort to a teaspoon and a half-teaspoon, which is really annoying, especially if the only difference is water in a drink to which I’m going to be adding ice.
-Cody
18 Apr 2009 at 1:26 pm 21. Sierra Z.
Can you do a video on how to iron a shirt? Thanks!
-Sierra
McMillian uses a cube because he wants to be able to control the amount of water in the drink (and because he is a badass muddler), but I assume the use of a 2:1 syrup addresses that issue in that it is minimizing the water in the solution.
23 Apr 2009 at 9:46 am 23. Tom G.
This is probably a silly question but I had never seen it until I saw your videos…
Why do you pour from the neck of the bottle between your middle and ring finger? Is it to keep finger prints off the bottles? Less arm motion? Cleaner?
Tom G – I don’t know, really, that’s just how I hold the bottle. I guess I like to pour slowly into the jigger for accuracy, but hold the bottle however you like.
The Nutsack, by Matthew Eggleston, The Hungry Cat, Los Angeles
2 oz Fino Sherry/
.75 oz Dolin sweet vermouth/
.5 oz. Nocina della christina ( or any good walnut liqueur)/
.25 oz. Dirty Sue olive juice/
dash Angostura dash Regan’s Orange-
Stir until well chilled –
serve in cocktail coupe with orange twist
Second Place
Dirty Daisy, by Blair Frodelius, GoodSpiritsNews.spaces.live.com
0.75 oz Sauza Anejo Conmemorativo
0.50 oz Patron Citronge
0.25 oz Dirty Sue
1 tsp Modena Balsamic Vinegar
1/8 lime
Pour all but lime in mixing glass with ice and stir. Strain into chilled cocktail glass and add squeeze of lime.
How many entries did you have to judge in the Dirty Sue competition? Also curious to know what you thought of the Salmiak Cocktail (Black Sambuca & Dirty Sue).
Cheers!
Blair
23 Aug 2009 at 11:41 pm 27. Daniel
I just tried this cocktail with Macallan, 12 yr. old(single malt scotch), but with only 1/8th an ounce of rich syrup. I loved the results; the sherry notes go so well with the orange.
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13 Apr 2009 at 1:06 pm 1. Kevin Erskine
I hate the way she pronounces “Mint Julep” oh wait…wrong video.
THIS guy knows what he is talking about.
I use a sugar cube…should I go to simple syrup??
And yes, I only make them with Rye now…
13 Apr 2009 at 1:10 pm 2. Ando
I like these videos…I don’t feel stupider afterwards.
13 Apr 2009 at 1:14 pm 3. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Thanks guys. Kevin, many sources will tell you to muddle a sugar cube with water, which is – in essence – making simple syrup on-the-fly. I prefer to use a teaspoon to a quarter-ounce of a nice, rich 2:1 simple syrup instead. There’s less water involved than a 1:1 simple, and you’re guaranteed not to have any residual graininess from the sugar cube. Try it sometime.
13 Apr 2009 at 4:13 pm 4. Jeff Frane
This sums up exactly what I love about your approach to cocktails: simple and delicious. All the recipes that call for mashing up slices of orange and maraschino cherries along with a cube of sugar . . . fail. This looks perfect.
13 Apr 2009 at 4:45 pm 5. Garretto
Jeff,
The slight muddle of the orange peel —nice. I find that the best method also. It’s a nice place between muddling a cherry and orange slice, and just an orange twist. Perfect.
I’ll have to try the 2:1 ratio on the syrup, I’ve always gone 1:1.
Nice presentation.
G.
13 Apr 2009 at 4:46 pm 6. Rich
Hey,
Not to change the topic, but who won the Dirty Sue Cocktail Contest? I’ve searched, but can’t find the answer.
BTW, the 2:1 syrup is much more tasty.
Gracias…
13 Apr 2009 at 7:01 pm 7. Chris
Well, Jeffrey, I tried your OF technique and David Wondrich’s technique from his “Esquire Drinks” opus back to back, and I’m sorry to say, while I love Wondrich, your style produces a far better cocktail than his. My hat is off to you, sir.
13 Apr 2009 at 8:37 pm 8. Jenny Adams
You steal pics off my site and then never mention anything beyond skiing and enjoying gorgeous Vail? …. what about hot tub – pool time? What about CCXXII? What about running from Yetis and all the delish GM and beer and scrambled eggs that tasted like a first sunset?
14 Apr 2009 at 12:31 am 9. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Frane and Garretto – Thank you. Very much.
Rich – I knew there was something I was forgetting! Stay tuned, I’ll update this post when I know more.
Chris – Maybe David and I should have an Old Fashioned smack-down in July?
Jenny – I’m appalled at my own behavior. Ladies and gentleman, photography by the lovely Jennifer Adams. Take a bow, Jenny.
14 Apr 2009 at 2:06 am 10. Kevin Erskine
Jeff, I actually put the bitters directly on the cube (no water added) and muddle.
Will try your approach!
14 Apr 2009 at 5:34 pm 11. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Kevin – I can’t see using two dashes of a high-proof bitters like Angostura dissolving the sugar enough without an insane amount of muddling or the addition of water. Is this really working for you?
15 Apr 2009 at 3:04 pm 12. Dan
Nice, I’ll have to give the orange peel a try.
Lately I’ve been using 2 dashes Angostura and 1 dash orange bitters to put a little citrus on the nose and tongue.
I tend to stir mine quite a bit before drinking. I think the extra water mellows some of stronger flavors and lets everything meld together a bit.
16 Apr 2009 at 10:30 am 13. Jackie Patterson
Jeff-
Umm, way to use your hands with the ice. I always knew you were dirty…
love always,
JP
16 Apr 2009 at 12:07 pm 14. Jac
Brilliant. Again.
Why aren’t there bartenders like this where I live? Whyyyyyyy?!?
16 Apr 2009 at 1:20 pm 15. Kevin Erskine
Actually was muddling the bitters soaked cube into the rye and orange…
I think the cube looks more retro…but i bet your strong simple syrup tastes better…
16 Apr 2009 at 3:41 pm 16. Andrew
Enjoyed the video! I tried the old fashioned recipe and like it much better than my old method (1t syrup, 2d angostura, 1d orange bitters). This version is much better (tastes more like a cocktail and less like fancying up straight whiskey).
16 Apr 2009 at 8:26 pm 17. Cody Predum
Very nice video, Jeff.
This is exactly how I make my Old Fashioned, except I use 1/2 oz of 1:1 simple syrup instead of 1/4 of 2:1 syrup. I’ll throw an orange slice and lemon peel on it when I’m done if I’m feeling fancy, but I never fuck with fake cherries.
This is also essentially the same as Robert Hess’ Old Fashioned video, except you actually measure your simple syrup. I always thought it was funny that Robert Hess, who is usually more meticulous about measurements than just about anyone, simply tells us to eyeball a dollop of simple syrup in the bottom of the glass. I’m all about being able to make a drink the same every time, and that method just doesn’t seem like it could ever be consistent, especially if you’re using a new glass.
Cheers,
-Cody
17 Apr 2009 at 8:48 am 18. Garretto
CP:
Jeff’s presentation also resembles the esteemed, Chris McMillian’s video for NOLA in that Chris does the light muddle of orange peel, however Chris does the sugar cube with a massive muddler that seems designed for the old fashioned glass. He really muscles it.
Try youtube “NOLA Cocktails”, or if this link works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEr7ym4-r5I
Jeff’s Old Fashioned I think combines the best of both Hess’ & McMillian’s styles.
17 Apr 2009 at 11:06 am 19. sylvan
Congtratulations on getting your picture in Playboy!
http://www.playboy.com/nightlife/a-list/
17 Apr 2009 at 7:17 pm 20. Cody Predum
Garretto:
I used to follow McMillian’s presentation exactly, but I’ve since realized how unnecessarily time consuming it is to muddle a sugar cube. Nevertheless, the fact that McMillian uses simple syrup for drinks other than his Old Fashioned and Sazerac (e.g. his Whiskey Sour) shows that he muddles simply to be as traditional as possible, and I respect that. Of course, regardless of whether or not you’re muddling a sugar cube, gently muddling a piece of orange peel is always a must.
But as for simple syrup, can anyone think of a reason to use a 2:1 instead of 1:1? I prefer the 1:1 because I have a 1/2 oz jigger, but to measure 1/4 oz I have to resort to a teaspoon and a half-teaspoon, which is really annoying, especially if the only difference is water in a drink to which I’m going to be adding ice.
-Cody
18 Apr 2009 at 1:26 pm 21. Sierra Z.
Can you do a video on how to iron a shirt? Thanks!
-Sierra
20 Apr 2009 at 4:15 pm 22. sku
McMillian uses a cube because he wants to be able to control the amount of water in the drink (and because he is a badass muddler), but I assume the use of a 2:1 syrup addresses that issue in that it is minimizing the water in the solution.
23 Apr 2009 at 9:46 am 23. Tom G.
This is probably a silly question but I had never seen it until I saw your videos…
Why do you pour from the neck of the bottle between your middle and ring finger? Is it to keep finger prints off the bottles? Less arm motion? Cleaner?
23 Apr 2009 at 8:03 pm 24. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Tom G – I don’t know, really, that’s just how I hold the bottle. I guess I like to pour slowly into the jigger for accuracy, but hold the bottle however you like.
24 Apr 2009 at 1:25 pm 25. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
Oops, forgot to post those winners:
First Place
The Nutsack, by Matthew Eggleston, The Hungry Cat, Los Angeles
2 oz Fino Sherry/
.75 oz Dolin sweet vermouth/
.5 oz. Nocina della christina ( or any good walnut liqueur)/
.25 oz. Dirty Sue olive juice/
dash Angostura dash Regan’s Orange-
Stir until well chilled –
serve in cocktail coupe with orange twist
Second Place
Dirty Daisy, by Blair Frodelius, GoodSpiritsNews.spaces.live.com
0.75 oz Sauza Anejo Conmemorativo
0.50 oz Patron Citronge
0.25 oz Dirty Sue
1 tsp Modena Balsamic Vinegar
1/8 lime
Pour all but lime in mixing glass with ice and stir. Strain into chilled cocktail glass and add squeeze of lime.
01 May 2009 at 4:15 pm 26. Blair Frodelius
Jeffrey,
How many entries did you have to judge in the Dirty Sue competition? Also curious to know what you thought of the Salmiak Cocktail (Black Sambuca & Dirty Sue).
Cheers!
Blair
23 Aug 2009 at 11:41 pm 27. Daniel
I just tried this cocktail with Macallan, 12 yr. old(single malt scotch), but with only 1/8th an ounce of rich syrup. I loved the results; the sherry notes go so well with the orange.
Cocktail win. Thanks Jeffrey!