Inspired by a visit to see Tony Conigliaro at the unnamed bar at 69 Colebrooke Row in London last fall, where Manhattans are aged in glass vessels to sublime and subtle effect, the barrel aged cocktails I’ve been serving at Clyde Common this year are a decidedly American curiosity.
The rub of aging cocktails in a glass bottle is that the whole premise is built upon subtlety, as we know that spirits aged in glass or steel do so at an unremarkable pace. Being from the United States, where – as everyone is aware – bigger equals better, I pondered the following question: what if you could prepare a large batch of a single, spirit-driven cocktail and age it in a used oak barrel?
A hundred some-odd dollars in liquor later, I was nervously pouring a gallon of pre-batched rye Manhattans into a small, used oak cask whose previous contents were a gallon Madeira wine. I plugged the barrel and sat back in anxious anticipation; if the experiment was a success I’d have a delicious cocktail to share at the bar – if it was a failure then I’d be pouring the restaurant’s money down the floor drain.
Over the next several weeks I popped open the barrel to test my little concoction until I stumbled upon the magic mark at five-to-six weeks. And there it was, lying beautifully on the the finish: a soft blend of oak, wine, caramel and char. That first batch sold out in a matter of days and I was left with a compelling need to push the process even further.
Now, three gallons of Negroni might not be practical for the home enthusiast, but the average bar or restaurant should be able to afford that sort of quantity quite easily. For those of you trying this at home, try searching the internet for one-gallon charred oak casks (stay away from the fancy lacquered kind meant for display in dens and 1980s wine bars) and be sure to let us know what you find in the comments section below.
We procured a small number of used whiskey casks from the Tuthilltown distillery and proceeded to fill them with a large batch of Negronis; and that’s when the magic of barrel aged cocktails grabbed our attention. After six weeks in the bourbon barrel, our Negroni emerged a rare beauty. The sweet vermouth so slightly oxidized, the color paler and rosier than the original, the mid-palate softly mingled with whiskey, the finish long and lingering with oak tannins. We knew we were on to something unique and immediately made plans to take the cask aging program to the next level.
Negronis are now prepared in five-gallon batches and poured into multiple bourbon barrels. Robert Hess’ ubiquitous Trident cocktail is currently resting inside single-malt barrels. The El Presidente (à laMatt Robold), Deshlers, Remember the Maines, they’re all receiving the oaked treatment in a little storage room in the basement of the restaurant that I refer to as my “office”.
Once the cocktail is aged long enough for my taste, I then drain the bottle, straining out any charred bits of wood, and bottle the contents for use by my bartenders. To order, the cocktail is then measured out and poured over ice in a mixing glass, stirred, strained into a cocktail glass, and then garnished with the appropriate garnish. It’s quick and simple, as all of the real work has already been done by the barrel.
Anyway, on to the recipes. As simple as it seems to do, I figured not everyone is going to want to do the math to get started on some of these recipes, so here are a few I’ve figured out:
Negroni
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) dry gin
128 oz sweet vermouth
128 oz Campari
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel. Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Manhattan
Makes Three Gallons
256 oz (approximately ten 750ml bottles) rye whiskey
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) sweet vermouth
7 oz Angostura bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a barrel that has previously stored sherry, Madeira, or port wine). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Trident
Makes Three Gallons
128 oz (approximately five 750ml bottles) aquavit
128 oz dry sherry
128 oz Cynar
7 oz peach bitters
Stir ingredients together (without ice) and pour into a three-gallon oak barrel (I prefer a used single malt barrel). Let rest for five to seven weeks and pour into glass bottles until ready to serve.
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments section below.
My problem with homemade tonic water has always been a flavor profile that was too esoteric for the general audience. This recipe takes some of the positive qualities people have come to understand from commercial tonic water and updated them with fresh ingredients.
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The world of booze can be mystifying to people that don't work in bars or around alcohol all the time. I hear a lot of assumptions about the industry I'm in that are - much like 90% of what you hear in bars - completely false. Here are a few you've probably heard yourself.
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There isn't much I can say about this video that hasn't been said already. If you've read anything I've written about cocktails, you'll understand why this video symbolizes everything wrong with the state of bartending in America today. Watch and learn, but be warned: this one isn't for the feint of heart.
About Me
My name is Jeff Morgenthaler and I'm the head bartender at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon.
I've been tending bar since 1996 and writing about it since 2004. Mixing drinks has become something of a passion for me in recent years, and I strive to elevate the experience of having a drink from something mundane to something more culinary.
The writing I do here is intended as a work in progress. My recipes are like my opinions: they are constantly being revised and refined as I work them through my mind and my fingers. Comments and participation are encouraged, so please don't feel the need to tread lightly here.
I absolutely hate it when someone sends me a box full of sex toys in the mail. Sure, it might sound like fun to some of you (you know who you are), but receiving a big box of free sex is much more trouble than it’s worth. Believe me. So I get a little guarded when unannounced packages arrive because, you know, I’m worried that they’re going to be full of sex stuff.
Just a couple of months ago, such a suspicious package arrived and I opened it to find – much to my delight – not a box full of sex toys but rather a new pear liqueur called Xanté. That’s fine, I thought to myself, at least it’s just a harmless pear liqueur and not something more salacious. So I opened the envelope, and there was the standard non-sexy note from the liquor company:
“Xanté is an intimate love affair, a passionate encounter, a lifetime commitment, a ménage à trois between virgin pears, the finest French cognacs, and soft caresses of vanilla from French Limousine Oak.”
Huh, okay, an intimate, passionate ménage à trois with soft caresses from virgins or whatever, nothing terribly naughty about that. Guess I’ll open the box.
Xanté comes in a sleek black box, carefully secured with a long, silken gold ribbon. It is my understanding that this ribbon is not meant to be used as a blindfold, gag, or method of restraint, but rather a simple and affordable alternative to, say, a piece of tape to keep the box closed. The box is emblazoned with the G-rated slogan “Unimaginable Pleasure”.
Inside is a little booklet full of stories about pleasure and very tasteful photo essays of women in the sporting life, surrounded by young shirtless boys and quotes comparing non-sexual leisure activities to the enjoyment of pear liqueur:
“Any croquet player of distinction knows it’s crucial to always keep her eyes on the balls and peg, regardless of how distracting the surroundings may be. Sight is an equally important part of the Xanté experience; its rich amber colour makes it apparent to anyone that looks do matter.”
…and:
“Just like a day at the croquet grounds, stroking coloured wooden balls across manicured lawns, Xanté is uncompromisingly unpredictable.”
Apparently all of this ball-stroking can whip up an insatiable thirst for the consumer, so I guess the next thing to do would be to open up the bottle. Nestled in a non-suggestive coffin of black satin sheets is the bottle, standing proudly and erect in its velveteen hole.
The opening nose is reminiscent of pears poached in cinnamon and wine. The first sip reveals a moderate amount of heat, which dissipates quickly leaving behind an extended finish of basic sugars, pear, light caramel, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg and banana. Or, in the words of the company:
“…with its touch of vanilla, the perfect penetration of pear, and the slow, tender mating process which seals the great conception delivering a flavour and taste beyond all known experience.”
I don’t know, maybe it does sound kind of dirty after all.
Comments
19 Responses to “Xante Pear Liqueur (Not A Sex Toy)”
Great write up!
Xante is not really new – maybe it is rebranded and new in the US.
Like usually in Dubai, it is difficult to get your hands on something like that, so invested into the elaborate procedure of a special import, a couple years ago.
The cost of a special import is quite high, so I had great expectations – which were almost met by the product.
Though too soon, the we finished the stocks.
My homemade take on Xante surprised to be even better than the original: VSOP Cognac, Eau de vie de fruit de poire williams and sugar – all blended together and left for few days.
The result had more impressive fruit flavors, deeper Cognac flavors and a little more soothing heat…
Due to the extensive cost of special imports, the homemade product was even less expensive.
Clearly, the X in Xanté means you’re in for some x-rated santé, French for health. In other words, sexual healing. Via pears. Because you already have the pegs, balls and mallets you need.
Does the booze inside remotely worth all the fuss? I actually don’t think anything is worth such fuss, but you know what I mean. It looks like a cheap way to give prestige to a very ordinary product. Sounds like a glorified Belle de brillet to me.
The only “over the top” packaging that I like is the one for the Bowmore 40 years, with the magnificent bottle, the chest and the monocle.
05 Jun 2009 at 4:38 pm 6. Scooter
Those guys should write copy for the side of the Asom Brosso bottle.
I just reflected the whole topic.
It would be worth to try to make a liqueur using Domfrontais Calvados.
This area in the Normandy has to use a minimum of 30% pears in the cider.
But then it depends, if you can find these calvados for a decent price…
So, next would be Teton vodka… giggity giggity… Great write up. It almost sounds Bourdainish. Regardless, I am now thirsty. Gotta go grab something pear. Cheers.
Thanks for costing me £16.10. Just ordered a bottle online. I love Cognac and with so many people mentioning that word in relation to this drink I just got to try it.
I guess I should of got away from my computer for a bit and went and bought a shot or two from a bar to see if I like it first.
I wonder if I can cancel that order…..
Jamie
23 Jun 2009 at 7:19 pm 13. starr01
Wow what a description. I have to try this stuff!
25 Jun 2009 at 12:43 am 14. Cha-Chi
French limousines, young shirtless boy’s,and croquet….. Sounds like your last trip to Europe!
“Velvety hole” just moved to the top of “Phrases I am Going to Beat to Death this Summer” list.
And interesting study in brand positioning.
09 Jul 2009 at 6:40 am 16. Ben
Man, I need a cigarette after reading that review.
23 Nov 2009 at 5:51 am 17. Mark Froelich
How can I get Xante shipped to my home in the US ?
26 Dec 2009 at 10:06 am 18. Martin Oldsberg
This is a Swedish product, and as a citizen of that country I´d like to apologize for it.
Xanté comes straight from the lab and tastes exactly like that, and if you like that sort of thing this may be the sort of thing you like, but beware: it´s sexiness is all linguistic. They should be sued for connecting it to “Cognac”.
21 Apr 2010 at 4:26 pm 19. TessaTrue
Xanté is not a joke. It is a truly memorable pleasure. I use to sip it when I lived in Scandinavia. Xanté is meant to be sipped… with the one you plan to be with. It is not meant to drink alone. Xanté is an experience. I too would like to know where to find it here in America. I am in Chicago, I cannot find it here.
I absolutely hate it when someone sends me a box full of sex toys in the mail. Sure, it might sound like fun to some of you (you know who you are), but receiving a big box of free sex is much more trouble than it’s worth. Believe me. So I get a [...]
05 Jun 2009 at 8:59 am 1. tomjulio
…it must have been a dirty and sexy for you, because directly below this article you have Norwegian Wood. Coincidence? I think not.
05 Jun 2009 at 9:21 am 2. Dominik MJ - opinionated alchemist
Hi Jeffrey,
Great write up!
Xante is not really new – maybe it is rebranded and new in the US.
Like usually in Dubai, it is difficult to get your hands on something like that, so invested into the elaborate procedure of a special import, a couple years ago.
The cost of a special import is quite high, so I had great expectations – which were almost met by the product.
Though too soon, the we finished the stocks.
My homemade take on Xante surprised to be even better than the original: VSOP Cognac, Eau de vie de fruit de poire williams and sugar – all blended together and left for few days.
The result had more impressive fruit flavors, deeper Cognac flavors and a little more soothing heat…
Due to the extensive cost of special imports, the homemade product was even less expensive.
05 Jun 2009 at 11:01 am 3. Brian12566
Just a Quick aside, Norwegian Wood, now erect bottles in velvety holes? Your blog rules.
Thanks for the review!
05 Jun 2009 at 12:29 pm 4. Eugenia
Clearly, the X in Xanté means you’re in for some x-rated santé, French for health. In other words, sexual healing. Via pears. Because you already have the pegs, balls and mallets you need.
05 Jun 2009 at 1:08 pm 5. Alex Newhouse
Well… I guess it could be used as a sex toy.
Does the booze inside remotely worth all the fuss? I actually don’t think anything is worth such fuss, but you know what I mean. It looks like a cheap way to give prestige to a very ordinary product. Sounds like a glorified Belle de brillet to me.
The only “over the top” packaging that I like is the one for the Bowmore 40 years, with the magnificent bottle, the chest and the monocle.
05 Jun 2009 at 4:38 pm 6. Scooter
Those guys should write copy for the side of the Asom Brosso bottle.
05 Jun 2009 at 6:55 pm 7. D
Drink the pear liqueur, or make love to it….
YOU decide. ;)
06 Jun 2009 at 6:10 am 8. Dominik MJ - opinionated alchemist
I just reflected the whole topic.
It would be worth to try to make a liqueur using Domfrontais Calvados.
This area in the Normandy has to use a minimum of 30% pears in the cider.
But then it depends, if you can find these calvados for a decent price…
07 Jun 2009 at 6:45 am 9. Philip Duff
Nothing raunchy that I can see, Morgenthaler, it’s just your dirty mind.
Healthy exercise will cure this weakness.
Why not go pound some steely-hard pegs into soft, welcoming, furry undergrowth –
on a camping holiday, say?
08 Jun 2009 at 4:22 pm 10. Rico
I couldn’t stand up for several minutes after reading this post.
09 Jun 2009 at 9:53 am 11. caskproof
So, next would be Teton vodka… giggity giggity… Great write up. It almost sounds Bourdainish. Regardless, I am now thirsty. Gotta go grab something pear. Cheers.
15 Jun 2009 at 4:58 am 12. Jamie Belcher
Thanks for costing me £16.10. Just ordered a bottle online. I love Cognac and with so many people mentioning that word in relation to this drink I just got to try it.
I guess I should of got away from my computer for a bit and went and bought a shot or two from a bar to see if I like it first.
I wonder if I can cancel that order…..
Jamie
23 Jun 2009 at 7:19 pm 13. starr01
Wow what a description. I have to try this stuff!
25 Jun 2009 at 12:43 am 14. Cha-Chi
French limousines, young shirtless boy’s,and croquet….. Sounds like your last trip to Europe!
Love you!
03 Jul 2009 at 8:01 am 15. Col. Hector Bravado
“Velvety hole” just moved to the top of “Phrases I am Going to Beat to Death this Summer” list.
And interesting study in brand positioning.
09 Jul 2009 at 6:40 am 16. Ben
Man, I need a cigarette after reading that review.
23 Nov 2009 at 5:51 am 17. Mark Froelich
How can I get Xante shipped to my home in the US ?
26 Dec 2009 at 10:06 am 18. Martin Oldsberg
This is a Swedish product, and as a citizen of that country I´d like to apologize for it.
Xanté comes straight from the lab and tastes exactly like that, and if you like that sort of thing this may be the sort of thing you like, but beware: it´s sexiness is all linguistic. They should be sued for connecting it to “Cognac”.
21 Apr 2010 at 4:26 pm 19. TessaTrue
Xanté is not a joke. It is a truly memorable pleasure. I use to sip it when I lived in Scandinavia. Xanté is meant to be sipped… with the one you plan to be with. It is not meant to drink alone. Xanté is an experience. I too would like to know where to find it here in America. I am in Chicago, I cannot find it here.