Latest Drink Recipe
In my opinion, one of the greatest triumphs of the cocktail renaissance is the rediscovery of the classic Old Fashioned. I’ve often spoken of how at some point after the repeal of Prohibition, the Old Fashioned became lost and possibly confused with a long-forgotten drink called a Smash (basically a tarted-up Mint Julep covered in fruit), a mere husk of its former, glorious self.
For decades, bartenders just like me served a limp, weak concoction consisting of a half-muddled sugar cube, a mashed-up neon red cherry and orange, a splash of whiskey, and some soda water drowning the results.
With a little luck, and a lot of hard work, that’s all changed with the renewed interest in classic cocktails. Now at any given night at my bar you can find literally a dozen people sipping on two ounces bourbon touched with a teaspoon of sugar and two dashes of bitters, garnished with a simple orange twist over a couple big ice cubes.
But don’t try to pull that bullshit with the good people of the Great State of Wisconsin, where the Brandy Old Fashioned rules supreme. It’s not the same drink as above, it just shares a name. And if you make it right, really right, it’s a damn delicious cocktail and worthy of examination.
Being located in a hotel, we’re used to serving folks from all over the world. And the first time I witnessed a guest from Wisconsin stare blankly as one of my bartenders handed over two ounces of Cognac touched with a teaspoon of sugar and two dashes of bitters and garnished with a simple orange twist over a couple big ice cubes, I knew some further training was in order.
So in the name of making cocktails – all cocktails – with as much of our hearts as we can offer, I present to you what I believe to be the perfect Brandy Old Fashioned… Wisconsin-style.
I start with an old fashioned glass I’ve chilled in the freezer. Call it a tumbler, call it a double rocks glass, or call it a bucket, it’s a glass you’re familiar with. To that I add two dashes of Angostura bitters and a teaspoon of sugar. If I’m in a hurry I use a 2:1 simple syrup, but if I’m going to spend some time, I use a sugar cube. The sugar cube is preferable here because it’s going to add some friction to the muddling we’re about to do. Brace yourselves, cocktail “nerds”.
Next I’ll take a thick-cut orange wedge, and a cherry. The usual suspect here is a grocery store maraschino cherry, but I always choose a brandied Amarena cherry. Remember, you’re going to get out what you put in, so a quality cherry is going to make the drink that much better.
I muddle the sugar, bitters, orange wedge and cherry into a thick paste, careful not to touch the orange peel too much as it’ll bring unwanted bitterness to the party – just work around the peel and pulverize that orange meat.
Your standard Brandy Old Fashioned brandy of choice is Korbel: cheap California brandy. Considering the hundreds of thousands of cases they ship to Wisconsin every year, it might be considered sacrosanct to use anything else. But if you want to do this right, really right, then do yourself a favor and use some good Cognac. I have my preferred brandy, you have yours.
At this point your typical Wisconsinite barkeep is going to add ice and finish the drink in one of two main ways: sweet or sour. Those who take it sweet will ask for a splash of Sprite or 7-Up, those who take it sour get a dose of Collins Mix or Squirt. To me, it’s just a way of watering down the drink, so I leave out the soda and take a more… cocktail-y method.
Crushed ice is a must for me whenever I whip up a Brandy Old Fashioned. I always skip the soda and let the tiny shards of ice do the work, taming those strong, sweet flavors and turning this into a drink you can sip slowly.
As for a garnish, most will throw a “flag” of an orange wedge and a cherry spiked through with a wooden toothpick, but my take here is that those things are already in the drink, so I skip ‘em. Besides, how pretty does that look without the goofy fruit salad perched over the top?
You know, it’s something to enjoy sipping on while you cook up some bratwurst and onions in a boiling kettle of beer before everyone comes over to watch the Packers game. Drink accordingly.
Brandy Old Fashioned
1 sugar cube or 1 tsp 2:1 simple syrup
2 dashes Angostura bitters
1 orange wedge
1 cherry, preferably Amarena or Maraska
2 oz brandy or Cognac
In a chilled old fashioned glass, muddle the sugar, bitters, orange wedge and cherry into a thick paste, careful not to work the orange peel. Add brandy or Cognac, stir, and fill glass with crushed ice and serve.
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About Me
My name is Jeff Morgenthaler and I'm the bar manager at Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon.
I've been tending bar since 1996 and writing about it since 2004. I started tending bar while getting my degree in Interior Architecture, and slowly I came to the conclusion that bartending was what I really loved, and that I might as well drop everything and focus on being a professional bartender. Over the years I have strived, both behind the bar and with this website, to elevate the experience of having a drink from something mundane to something more culinary.
The writing I do here is intended as a work in progress. My recipes are like my opinions: they are constantly being revised and refined as I work them through my mind and my fingers. Comments and participation are encouraged, so please don't feel the need to tread lightly here.
6. An important part of bear culture is the notion of “cubs”; younger men who identify with the culture and often accompany older men. Here are four pictures of younger men accompanying older men. See if you can pick out the one couple of cocktail geeks from the group.
22 Jul 2010 at 8:27 AM 1. Craig Hermann
I’m pretty sure that’s someone’s (Matt’s likely) home-made falernum inside a conveniently reused Velvet Falernum bottle. Just to ratchet up the cocktail geek factor, natch’.
For the bear factor, Matt is in the process of saying, “Step off my dick.”
22 Jul 2010 at 8:36 AM 2. Lauren Clark
Was it the pneumonia that led to this inspired bit of ribaldry? Whatever, I’m on board.
22 Jul 2010 at 8:52 AM 3. Jim Romdall
Tales just isn’t the same without ya. But we have a few surprises in store.
22 Jul 2010 at 9:08 AM 4. Joe
this is lame. and im a “bear”
22 Jul 2010 at 9:12 AM 5. Marleigh
I’m sorry that we’re both missing Tales this year, but I am amused to note that not only do I know your cocktail geek bears, I actually know one of the actual bears from SF in your photos. Which probably says more about me than anything else.
Get well soon!
22 Jul 2010 at 9:22 AM 6. Matt R.
That was, in fact, my homemade falernum. I was also operating that muddler under the influence of X-Rated…cause I’m stupid.
22 Jul 2010 at 10:51 AM 7. Ron Diggity
I love Rumdood wielding that muddler like he’s drawing upon the power of Grayskull.
22 Jul 2010 at 11:14 AM 8. Dr. Bamboo
Both Craig & Matt are correct- it was Matt’s homemade falernum (one of several different recipes he brought, if I’m not mistaken).
I had attempted to pour a small measure into a glass to sample it, but was commanded to just drink it straight from the bottle by the gentleman brandishing the frighteningly large muddler. Never let it be said I can’t take direction.
Get better ASAP Jeffrey!
22 Jul 2010 at 11:19 AM 9. SeanMike
I just had to explain a) why I was busting up laughing at the Carousel Bar and b) what a “bear” is.
22 Jul 2010 at 12:02 PM 10. Rum Balls
I believe that both cocktail nerds & bears/cubs ALL like to “wield their muddlers” :)
22 Jul 2010 at 1:43 PM 11. Jeffrey Morgenthaler
I’m glad I could entertain you all from afar and hope that everyone is having a great time without me (sniff, sniff) in New Orleans this week.
Jeff
PS – I’m concerned that I haven’t heard from Rick yet… I certainly hope he isn’t planning some sort of retaliation.
22 Jul 2010 at 6:06 PM 12. Jimmy
I like this quiz. Is there any difference between a bear and a cocktail geek? Can one be both?
I will also be crying into my cocktail glass again this year while everyone except us is in New Orleans.
23 Jul 2010 at 3:29 AM 13. Erik Adkins
Sorry Neyah, your are too old to be a cub. Though you do make a formidable bear. By the way, Daniel Shoemaker and I have bartended at many rendevous bear parties when we both worked at “Thirsy Bear Brewing Co” in the 90’s. Its like a homosexual Comicon.
28 Jul 2010 at 12:12 AM 14. Christopher Martino
This gets four and a quarter star in my book, and it trumps the Gay or Just European game I started when I had a group of 5 Italian guys at work!
29 Jul 2010 at 1:49 AM 15. Rocky
so glad I don’t have a beard
01 Aug 2010 at 12:02 PM 16. Jenny Adams
Ok,
I know i’m late to this discussion (sue me – i have a job which i’m busy procrastinating at)
But i just wanted to point out to morgenthaler that the muddler being wielded appears to be a red plastic Boca Loca muddler.
Two words Jeffrey – Mouth Breathers.
01 Aug 2010 at 2:20 PM 17. Rowen
Hilarious look on your face in #3. That Brad sure looks sweet, btw.
14 Aug 2010 at 9:50 PM 18. federico cuco
JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJA
26 Aug 2010 at 7:00 AM 19. Ben
This is, perhaps, one of the best things I’ve ever seen. Bravo.
30 Oct 2010 at 9:16 AM 20. Tracy
Does a cocktail geek and a “bear” have to look alike or just coincidence? =)